Embracing the beauty of Fiji
Have you ever taken a ride along Viti Levu’s Queens Highway, passing the blue coral coast, the sugarcane fields in the West, and over the majestic Nakauvadra mountain range?
On my recent trip, I circled the island in just two days, covering about 464.1 km.
I’ve heard from others that this journey is not for the faint-hearted wannabe traveller, especially considering the potential breakdowns in the middle of nowhere.
Yet, what nobody told me about were the spectacular sights and experiences waiting along the way.
Scenic highlights
Along the drive, the breathtaking Nakauvadra range stood tall and astonishing, lifting the sky above stunning landscapes. Farm fences stretched endlessly through mangrove swamps in Ra, creating a picturesque scene alongside the mysterious boulders that dotted the roadside.
In Ba, I encountered old buildings and well-preserved cars, seemingly frozen in time, which made me feel like I had wandered into a living history lesson.
We travelled from the mango lands of Viti Levu to the banana county in Tailevu, the journey painted a vivid picture of Fiji’s diverse agricultural landscapes.
The choice of transport: Car vs bus
For this trip, I opted to travel by car considering the benefits of more legroom, control over music, and the freedom to stop whenever I pleased — just watch out for the occasional cow dung!
Cattle farming thrives here, particularly in the west and along Tailevu’s southeastern fringes. Though bus travel has its unique charm — like striking up conversations with a passenger — it often requires transferring between various routes. My vehicle was ready with a full tank and necessary inspections, making for an enjoyable drive along the stunning Queens Highway.
Preparation is key
Proper planning is crucial for this venture. Towns and service stations grow sparse, especially between Navua and Mawi Bay — a stretch of about 65km without any stops. It’s advisable to take breaks at service stations for restrooms, parking, and snacks. We packed chocolates, fruit drinks, and bottled water, but our aim was to discover local eateries hidden along the Coral Coast.
Coral coast adventures
Our first significant stop was on the Coral Coast — an 80-kilometre stretch of beauty from Suva to Sigatoka.
The charming bays, vibrant surf breaks, and swaying coconut trees characterise this stunning region of Fiji. We dined at the ‘Crabshack’ in Korotogo, savouring beer and delicious food while watching the sunset before retreating to the lovely Outrigger Fiji Resort and Spa.
My connection to Korotogo is deeply personal. I recalled fond memories from my first hotel experience, and how it ignited my love for travel.
I have a bitter-sweet connection with the place. Rewind back to my primary school days, I spent a few nights at the Reef Hotel with my classmate and his parents in the early ’90s.
My classmate, the late Atu Bevu, convinced his parents to take me on the trip and together we made good memories frolicking the white sandy beach and showing off to two American girls who became our friends.
We ate all the snacks in our room’s mini-fridge and even opened-up a can of beer, curious about what it would taste like.
In 2001, I returned as a labourer for a scaffolding company fresh out of high school. The Outrigger was under construction, filled with heavy machinery, mud, dust and very noisy.
The work was brutally tough in the hot sun.
I worked there for months erecting scaffolding. One day with sunburns and blisters on the palms of my hand I climbed to the highest point — on the rooftop of the main lounge area. The building was still in its skeleton form.
It was here I sat in solace dwelling about my choices in life and how much I hated that dun job. I was at a low point in life. It was the only job available for an inexperienced worker at the time.
In October I was back as a guest. I saw that same roof and reflected on how young and naive I was — not knowing I had the power to change it to be where I am today.
Music sets the mood
A well-curated playlist is essential for setting the mood on any road trip. On this journey, we had 123 songs ranging from John Michael Montgomery’s “I Swear” to Oasis’s “Wonderwall.” It took exactly that number of songs to complete our lap around the island, making every moment memorable.
Off-road discoveries
We made various stops along the way, including both popular spots and hidden gems.
The Deuba Maui Bay jetty offers picturesque views, while Cafe Planet serves some of the best coffee on the Coral Coast.
Natadola Beach, located a short way off the main road, showcases breathtaking scenery and is accessible via a gravel road, revealing postcard-worthy views.
A taste of Ra
Rakiraki is a paradise for fish lovers. An icebox is essential if you plan on taking advantage of the fresh catch from local fishermen. The abundance of vegetables is equally impressive, showcasing just how rich the agricultural landscape is in this region.
The wonders of Kings Rd
Driving along Kings Rd after Lautoka, I marvelled at the vast mountain ranges and the expansive, less-forested horizons.
There were huge black boulders along the road, some as big as a house rested on the mountain just waiting to roll. A looked like the remains of some volcanic explosion many years ago.
The journey through Tailevu Province revealed green, lush landscapes and clean villages where roadside stalls overflowed with fresh produce, including delicious bananas.
Apart from bananas this is also dairy territory. There are more cows on this side than in the West.
A sense of accomplishment
As we drove over the Rewa Bridge on our return journey, I felt a strong sense of accomplishment. This trip wasn’t merely about the miles travelled; it was about embracing the scenery, reconnecting with memories, and realising the beauty of Fiji in all its forms.
In conclusion, taking a trip around Viti Levu is not just a physical journey — it’s an adventure filled with stories, self-discovery, and a deeper appreciation for Fiji’s natural beauty and culture. If you ever find yourself contemplating this journey, don’t hesitate. It’s more than worth every minute spent on the road.
