THERE are countless stories of Bau but not many of Viwa.
The stories of how Bau reigned when cannibalism was rife but not much about Viwa’s role in that reign.
Stories about Viwa have tended to focus on how the great warlord, Ratu Ilaitia Varani Ravisa Komaisavai, accepted Christianity.
For those wanting to know about Christianity in Fiji and its link to Viwa, a trip to the island is a memorable one.
Viwa Island is off the coast of Tailevu on the southern eastern side of Viti Levu. The island is accessible only by boat from Bau landing which is about 20 minutes drive from Nausori Town or from Nakalawaca Village in Namara, a 25-minute drive from Nausori.
The boat ride from Bau landing to Viwa is about 10 minutes.
Nearing Bau, one has to wonder how an island of its size was able to command a great army with its chief Ratu Seru Cakobau proclaiming himself as the Tui Viti (king of Fiji).
The answer can be found, or heard, on Viwa Island.
From afar the island is like a fortress — the opening allowing access is limited. It is this little opening that the boats enter to reach the village. Other than that the island is protected by cliffs. There is only one village — Viwa.
Our isevusevu was presented to Ratu Esikeli Tabakaucoro Doviverata Komaisavai son of Ratu Seniloli Komaisavai and direct descendant of a late Roko Tui Viwa, Ratu Namosimalua.
Ratu Namosimalua is the direct descendant of Nacavavuto from Nakorotubu Ra which is known in Fijian folklore as land of the mystics.
Ratu Raivalita Komaisavai was the first traditionally installed Roko Tui Viwa, he was installed at Ucunivanua in Verata.
According to Ratu Esikeli, Viwa was settled by those who came from Naitasiri, Bua, Batiki and Ra.
Their ancestors’ journey to Viwa was deliberate and to safeguard the sau (mana) at Bau, this sau came from Nakorotubu via Verata.
To arrive at Viwa Island was not easy as they had to first fight tooth and nail with club-wielding tribes on the way.
“Our ancestor is Nacavavuto who is also a direct descendant of the Gonesau. He was both a sailor and a warrior who left Nakorotubu with his followers to deposit these warriors at Viwa.
“He had sailed to the island back and forth to get his people who make up the Yavusa o Nayaumunu.”
“So gathered on this island are strong, fearless people who fought and battled their way through.”
That they originated from different areas, their ability to unite and settle together on one island is amazing. What is more amazing is that Viwa later became the driving force of Bau.
The island produced the greatest warriors that Bau could lean on.
In the words of Ratu Esikeli: “We (Viwa) did all their dirty jobs.”
They would wage war and come out victorious, they would protect Bau and its territories and the people would sleep in comfort.
How did they do it, there is only one explanation — they integrated their varied strengths from highland warriors to sailors — for a unique way to wage war.
Ratu Ilaitia Varani led the Bauan army because behind him were 46 yavusa and because he was from Ra, he had blood lines to chiefs of the West.
Viwa also was the reason Ratu Seru Cakobau survived a plot to kill him and his father Ratu Tanoa Visawaqa when Ratu Seru was still 12 years old.
According to Ratu Esikeli both father and son were on Naigani Island, when Ratu Namosimalua Komaisavai, Ratu Varani’s uncle informed them of a conspiracy to kill them.
They were told it was therefore prudent they leave Bau and seek refuge somewhere else. Ratu Esikeli said by the time Ratu Namosimalua warned Ratu Tanoa and Ratu Seru, warriors from Bau were preparing to ambush them.
In another story, Ratu Namosimalua had accompanied both Ratu Tanoa and Ratu Seru on a fishing trip and had asked them to flee because he had been tasked to kill them both.
That day both father and son left and because of their chiefly blood ties took refuge in Somosomo, Taveuni.
Over the years Ratu Seru slowly gained the confidence of Somosomo and its allies and when he was old enough he informed his father — Ratu Tanoa, that they were ready to return and reclaim what was rightfully theirs.
Upon their return, Ratu Namosimalua and his people of Viwa were spared Ratu Cakobau’s wrath, who was accompanied by the army of Somosomo.
When they had seized authority, Ratu Tanoa asked who had conspired to kill them. This, Ratu Namosimalua admitted. Many thought he would be killed knowing fully well how Ratu Tanoa reacted to such treasonous acts.
To their amazement, Ratu Tanoa accepted his honesty and forgave him. Little did the people of Bau, know that it was Ratu Namosimalua who had saved them when they were marked for death.
This could be one reason Bau would heavily rely on Viwa as its warrior and protector.
There was an exception. When Bau fought Verata, Viwa always sided with Verata. Against any other in Fiji, Viwa would lead Bau’s army.
In another account, Derrick Scarr in his book The Majesty of Colour: A Life of Sir John Bates Thurston said: “Ratu Tanoa was forced into exile, firstly on Koro Island and then in Somosomo on Taveuni, where he remained until Ratu Seru led a coup in 1837, reinstalling his father as Vunivalu until his death in 1852, whereupon Cakobau inherited the title.”
On one instance Ratu Seru Cakobau tasked Ratu Ilaitia Varani, his best friend, to kill the Roko Tui Bau which Varani did.
As years went by and after fulfilling all traditional roles and responsibilities, ensuring that all orders from Ratu Cakobau were followed and respected, the yavusa o Nayaumunu thought it was time to do away with their war clubs.
At this time the Methodist Church was also looking for a place to move to for further translation of the Bible in the indigenous language.
Reverend John Hunt, a linguist, had learnt some iTaukei from Tonga while serving there. Some indigenous Fijians had settled in Tonga — through trade and other reasons.
However, his translation of the Bible in Lakeba, Lau was not very convincing as many did not understand the Lakeba dialect and also because the translation had some Tongan words in it.
The Bible was then translated in the Somosomo and Rewa dialects but that did not really work. So the church decided to ask Ratu Cakobau whether it was possible to have an office in Bau and the Bible be translated in the Bauan dialect.
Knowing fully well Bau’s prowess and ability and that its territory and reign had extended, the church believed this was the best and fastest way to spread the gospel.
But Ratu Cakobau did not accept the request.
This request was made when Viwa was trying to give up cannibalism.
Ratu Esikeli said when Viwa accepted Christianity, it was the dawn of a new day. The new day that would save Fiji from those cannibalistic ways, that day is still shining today.
“We were in between two ‘superpowers’ Verata and Bau, before Christianity we were subordinates to Ratu Cakobau.
“Ratu Cakobau still refused to give in to Christianity and insisted to live his old ways, he disliked what Ratu Varanise had done, and he attempted a few times to have the Roko Tui Viwa slain.”
With a stuttering voice and tears in his eyes, Ratu Esikeli said his late chief finally met his fate when he tried changing the people of Lovoni to embrace Christianity
“Because he had maternal links (vasu) to Lovoni, he told everyone it would be best that he go and personally make that request of them.
When Ratu Varani was about to give up his pagan ways, he sent word to Cakobau of his intention. Cakobau replied that if Varani did, he would kill and eat him. Varani replied that although he respected Cakobau, he feared God more.
On Good Friday, 21 March 1845, Varani made his public profession of faith at the early morning prayer service and he entered the waters of baptism and shortly thereafter he was baptised with his followers by the Holy Spirit when fire fell from heaven and they spoke in tongues at Kirici.
As early as an hour after his conversion, his deadly skills were called upon. He refused. Again and again he was called upon to kill and he kept refusing, even when insulted. When protecting missionaries or converts, he used only defensive measures and whenever possible intervened to prevent the deaths of innocents.
He was a candid and influential preacher.
His dreaded double-hulled war canoe called the Lagolevu used to have dead babies hung from the mast before departing for war was now being used to transport missionaries to various parts of Fiji.
That canoe is now the symbol of the Methodist Church in Fiji because Ratu Varani and canoe contributed greatly to the work of the early Methodist missionaries in Fiji.
In 1853, Ratu Elijah, as he was known after his baptism, went to Ovalau to quell fighting between the Tui Levuka and rebellious mountain villagers. His unarmed intervention was unsuccessful this time and after surviving an ambush, was attacked and murdered as he was on his way to bath.
The people of Lovoni presented a whale’s tooth to Ratu Varani to ask for his head in a chiefly manner.
It has been regarded as the ultimate sacrifice by Ratu Ilaitia Ravisa Varani Komaisavai – who also became the first chiefly martyr of the Methodist Church. Risking his life and the lives of his people by accepting Christianity, a sacrifice that meant severing a relationship with the Bau chief and a sacrifice that cost him his life.
But more importantly it was a sacrifice that took the indigenous people out of the dark days, and into the new where there is hope for salvation in the after-life.
Ratu Varani’s legacy gives meaning to the words of former Irish president Maria Robison: “Nobody can go back and start a new beginning, but anyone can start today and make a new ending.”
While at Viwa, there are several things for one to do;
* A visit to the graveyard of Reverend John Hunt and his band of pioneer followers and some French officers who all are buried behind the church;
* A visit to his prayer house which is on a small hill (10 minutes away from the village) facing Bau. There, the surrounding is different. It’s as if a supernatural feeling comforts and consoles you; and
* Have a look at the bell of the French ship Josephine which was ambushed by Ratu Varani way before he accepted Christianity.
NOTE: His real name was Ratu Ravisa. He was given the name Varani from the word Varanise during the take over of the French brig Josephine which had the Ratu mai Verata, Ratu Vesikula, who was about to be taken to France (Varanise in the iTaukei language) to be killed for harassing the members of the Catholic Church at Ucunivanua). The name Ilaitia was bestowed upon him when he accepted Christianity and named after the prophet Elijah.
