EVERY time I travel down to the West, I always make sure to have a glimpse of the village more commonly known as Vatuolailai.
People often tell me they are the landowners of the famous Naviti Resort. I always tell myself one day I must visit this village.
It was not until two months ago when I was invited to a presentation by Apisalome Movono of his thesis at the University of the South Pacific.
Mr Movono is into the final stages of his PhD studies in tourism management at the Griffith Institute for Tourism at Griffith University in Australia.
His study examined how more than 40 years of tourism development had led to complex and multi-scale changes in an indigenous Fijian village.
“The purpose of this research is to shed light on how indigenous Fijians respond, adapt and cope with the challenges of development, in particular, development that stems from tourism. Such deep and immersive studies are essential for iTaukei communities and other indigenous peoples in the Pacific, particularly as we find ways to balance our traditions with the challenges of the future, given the increasing global climatic, economic and social uncertainties we are exposed to.
“The findings of this study are intended to inform decision-makers and community members of the best options going forward in achieving more sustainable and resilient development.
“The findings can also foster better relations and collaborative actions between Government, NGOs, hotels, USP and communities involved in tourism in pursuing actions that benefit all stakeholders.”
According to Apakuki Tasere, the village headman, the vanua o Davutukia has eight yavusa — four of which come under the rule of the Tui Davutukia.
The other four that traditionally do not come under the rule of the Tui Davutukia are Kawabu, Noijubai, Nakubunicere and Naculava. These four, together with the Tui Davutukia, make up the executive council of the vanua.
“According to historical accounts passed down by our forefathers, we left Koroinasau (deep in the highlands of Navosa, that is also land of the kai Davutukia), and journeyed down the valley to where we now reside.”
He said the yavusa o Davutukia was one of the largest in the Nadroga/Navosa Province and its land and people could be traced to as far as Bemana, Nalebaleba, Yalavou and Naidoyaga.
“Because we had so much land, the colonial government decided to separate us in small districts thus the reason Korolevu-i-wai district has only four villages — Votua, Vatuolailai, Tagaqe and Namada. A tabua was presented by our village elders at that time that we all come under the leadership of the Tui Davutukia and to be registered under the Nadroga/Navosa Province.
“You may have heard at one time there was a movement to separate Navosa from Nadroga, but the Tui Davutukia said, if that were the case we would be included in the Nadroga Province, because they respected the tabua which was presented earlier. That is why that motion did not succeed because the Tui Davutukia’s land starts from the foreshore and runs deep in the highlands where the Serua and Namosi Province meets.”
He said after their ancestors left Koroinasau they journeyed and rested at Buha (Busa), before finally residing at their current location.
“Two brothers from the yavusa Noijubai cleared this area and marked the village boundary before calling on the yavusa o Davutukia to settle with them.
“The Naviti Resort sits on the land that belongs to the yavusa o Davutukia.
“The traditional heralds of the village are those that make up the tokatoka o Nakelo from the yavusa o Davutukia.
“I belong to the yavusa o Noijubai. We belong to the vanua o Tako Lavo, and we have been blessed as we have managed to rekindle our traditional ties with the people of Nagado, Naqarawai in Namosi and we hope to do this also in Naitasiri where the Tako Lavo relationship can be found.
“Our totem fish is the saqaloa (caranx lugubris). Whenever we see a school of the saqaloa enter the harbour coupled with the crying of the dilio (bird) at night, to us that is a sign of death in the vanua. This is still happening today.
“There is something that we are also known for and that is a member of the yavusa o Nakelo would lead a fishing trip and will just look for the direction of the wind before pointing out where the net will be cast.
“A kawa branch is then scrapped before multitudes of fish are caught. The only taboo is no one from outside is allowed to peep or spy on the fishermen.”
The Naviti Resort and its impact
Prior to construction of the Naviti Resort, the village of Vatuolailai relied heavily on coconut as their main source of income.
“Our fathers and grandfathers tell us that before the resort, during the day, you can hardly see a young man wearing his T-shirt, because his chest would be filled with scratches from scaling the coconut trees.”
Mr Tasere said in 1969 consultations began for the construction of the resort.
“In 1973, our village elders started clearing the place up, and this included cutting and uprooting of trees. This turned out to be employment for them and when construction companies later joined, our elders were employed. From the clearing to until the completion of the resort, our elders were there every step of the way,” he said.
“When the resort was opened in 1974, our elders with the owners of the resort signed a memorandum of agreement, and today we are the recipients and bearing the fruits of that MOA.
“I must say the MOA has benefited us a lot. So slowly everyone was employed by the resort and reliance on copra faded until today.
“One of the benefits of this MOA was proper water supply to the village. Since the opening of the hotel, we have not experienced any water problem. When a house has problems with its water system, the resort employees do the repair works and that’s all under the MOA.
“Before, we were relying on a pool located in the village. That pool we used for bathing and to source drinking water. Now no more. Thanks to our elders and the MOA with the resort we do not face any more water problems.”
The environmental impact
The construction of the resort brought a lot of changes.
Mr Tasere said a small salt water pool was once located where the resort’s lounge is situated.
He said the pool was frequented by the village women and not long after jumping in, fish would come up the surface and they would literally pick fish from the surface.
“Today that place is no more. The river was diverted and out on the reef there are dead corals, but today we have a nursery and we’re planting corals at our marine protected area.”
Mr Tasere said the two man-made islands also contributed to the changes.
“The beach in front of the hotel is known as Korovulivuli, which means the ‘village of sands’. Before the hotel was constructed, there used to be very fine white sand. Now that white sandy beach is no more.
“This area was also the breeding ground of turtles, but since the construction of the resort, there has not been any other turtle found on this beach. Except further out at sea a white sand island is submerged and every day at 11am turtles can be seen there.
“In addition I can clearly remember when we were still young, fish was easily caught by the beach near the resort. Today fish like daniva and salala are hardly seen where they were once in abundance.
“I would also like to add that at one time, I saw the boat, the Tui Tai, enter these waters. Today, big boats like the Tui Tai cannot enter because the water is shallow.
“The different coloured crabs that once decorated the white sandy beach are no longer seen.”
Mr Tasere said the construction of the hotel had a deep impact on their environment and marine eco-system and in an effort to restore what was lost as part of their resilience program, a portion of their traditional fishing ground had been declared a marine protected area for the past 16 years.
“The white sand that was lost at Korovolivoli is found in this area. Marine life has been restored and we have seen the abundance of a variety of fish,” he said.
“We have seen that if we protect our environment, it will look after us.
“This research and others being driven from the USP school of tourism and hospitality management indicates the growing interest in issues that affect communities involved in tourism.
“Conversations involving tourism mainly feature visitor numbers and contribution to GDP. This research and others want to go beyond this and to ascertain how “people” at the frontline of tourism are affected as a result and FBE and USP are taking positive steps in this direction pushing the boundaries of knowledge in the region.
“This research is also testament to the quality of graduates that USP produces and the high level of research which USP staff and researchers are involved in.
“This study also joins a countless number of other researchers either educated or affiliated with USP who are making an impact on the lives and the future of communities in Fiji and the Pacific.
“It is an example of research conducted in the region by people from the region and is having an impact at the international academic stage as well.
“The School of Tourism and Hospitality Management, Faculty of Business and Economics and USP leadership in general needs to be commended for its continued support for its young researchers and for supporting a focus for communities in the Pacific. This research and those like it show how partnerships between USP and other world renown universities can bear fruit and have an impact on the lives of people at the grassroots community. In fact, that is why we are in the business of research, to answer difficult questions using empirical research in order to have a positive impact on our region and our people,” added Mr Movono
* Next week, we take a look at the social impact and economic benefits of one of Fiji’s oldest resorts.
