They say that you can always judge people and know where they come from and how old they are by the clothes they wear.
The 1970s was RETRO from the Hippie influence like Afro hairstyles and bell-bottoms to radical chic from Hollywood in platform shoes, mini denims, tie-dye and glitz to a generation of flashing neon and punk.
The “Dragon” and “Lucky Eddies” night-club in Suva was the runway for this consumerism.
In Fiji and the Pacific after years of European influence where categories of women hitherto restrictions in length and style, would now enjoy an opportunity of different preferences.
Flower Power which had developed momentum from the Hippie culture and was embraced with open arms was eventually replaced with tropical flowers, tropical leaves, sea shells and motifs that represented the Pacific Ocean.
Change in fashion was becoming a visible manifestation that people wanted something that was designed and created for them and the TIKI TOG Fashion House provided that.
Before long their signature of tropical colors and designs won the hearts of many including our national airline Air Pacific uniforms that represented Fiji and the Pacific.
Tourism industry
Fiji saw the potential in the tourism sector and so a campaign to lure visitors to our shores was conducted.
It was until years later with the collapse of the sugar industry did tourism surpass the Sugar Industry as the biggest revenue earner for our beloved Fiji.
In their campaign to grow the tourism market they advertised white sandy beaches, luxury hotels as well as back-packers accommodation and tropical climates.
In order to complete these advertisements they used fashion in traditional printed clothing.
Of course the easy access by our local airline made it more attractive with the services and well-trained flight personnel in their Pacific attire.
By the late 1970s Fashion in Fiji was well on its way to establishing its own unique identities. The Fijian women had identified certain ideas that should be incorporated into their “traditional” jaba.
Dresses were more conservative which turned into coherent ranges and the Sulu (sarong) skirts also differentiated the status of the wearer.
The women of noble birth wore their sulu above the ankle and the jaba dresses were only about six inches from the Sulu length.
The ordinary women would cover their ankles and their jaba was a shorter dress version often worn just below the knee.
The male version of the Sulu-va-toga was now more modified by the late Sir Lala Sukuna.
The sulu-va-taga was now created with side pockets and a waistband and buckle which gave it a more professional look.
The Sulu length was now shorter just below the knee for our Fijian and Rotuman men.
Ratu Sukuna – A trend setter
By the early 1980s the education system as well as the whole of Fiji had embraced the sulu-va-taga as part of the uniforms for all males as well as uniforms for corporations.
The Safari type shirt the colonisers introduced and which Ratu Sukuna frequently adorned was adopted into most Government run schools until recently.
Now we see formal wear for the Fijian men in a suluva-taga, a shirt with a matching coat which is tradition infused with Western textiles and patterns and finally a consensus have been reached for our Fijian menswear fully embraced and accepted by all communities living in Fiji and abroad.
It is so similar to the Scottish Kilt and so a trend created by the late Ratu Sukuna has become part of our Ethnic wardrobe.
1980s – Garment industry
By the 1980s, the Garment Industry was starting to serve as a catalyst for the Fiji economy resulting in many new factories providing employment and knowledge on a trade that was previously limited to few.
The Garment Training Centre at Nabua was in place to providing training for the many who seek to get knowledge and employment in these factories.
This resulted in “back-yard” production allowing people to sew and earn an extra income at home as well.
Courses provided at the Garment Training center was structured to provide skills for employment in the Garment Factories and the resources, influences and independence was embraced by all.
Women SMEs were given subsidised loans through the Fiji Development Bank and cottage industries sprung up.
The 1980s saw the rise in employment figures for women and the ability to earn extra income with knowledge of textile printing through the various short courses offered to the rural communities and women groups such as the Soqosoqo Vakamarama and many others.
By this time the family owned Fashion owned Power-house in Fiji and the Pacific saw the opening of many outlets all around Fiji including various Hotels and Resorts.
TIKI TOGS continued to make its presence known with many new styles and color palette was from natural hues to very bold and vibrant colors.
The men also had claimed their own aesthetic presence on the TIKI TOGS clothing racks with earthy colors and demure prints.
Tanya Whiteside
The “Tanya Whiteside” Collections was introduced and I remember walking into several of their boutiques with displays of their on-going respectability derived from the parent company which invoked immediate passion.
1990s
Production was increasing which saw the increase in employment and the opening of several boutiques with its focus on the Tourism market.
These were sold at Tourist prices but similar was also produced for the local market.
With the multi-racial and different ethnicities Fiji is blessed with there was also an increase in imported Fashion garments in Indian costumes, Asian inspired and South African printed cotton allowing the public access to new and fresh fashion.
Apart from the Music Industry and Hollywood, the much loved Princess Diana played a major role in influencing the Fashion world.
Our local women also adopted the big collars and peplums as well as the layers of frills and lace.
This was again incorporated in the local Jaba styles.
With the increase in little tailoring shops, people were able to afford custom-made garments at very cheap prices so fashion became affordable and materials in spandex, polyester and sheer readily available to everyone.
Viavia Fashion Show 1992
After TIKI TOGS ruled fashion in Fiji for years, little Fashion shows started to emerge.
The first was the Viavia Fashion Show organized by Anna Sweetman, May Goulding, Eileen
Van Loan and Dawn Gibson showing-casing a collaboration between Fijis Most celebrated
Artist Lambert Ho and Fashion Designer Rosie Emberson-Semisi.
The creators had a common desire to breathe new life into fashion by making innovative prints by introducing hand-printed contemporary Art on textile and developing alternative methods of construction by exploring properties of new readily available for everyone.
Wella Fashion Shows 1993
This show brought in new designers to the scene giving Fashion in Fiji a more personal and cultural twist continuing from what fashion was previously.
Different categories brought out various creative forces providing compelling inventions to produce designs that are in tune with the times and needs of our people.
It appeared to be more conventional at times but as the years continued Fiji designers started to open up often subversive at times.
The outfit by Fashion Designer Jean Ragg won the first-ever WELLA Fashion show and her composition was that of a contemporary hooded masi cloak over a masi gown also made of raw masi (bark of the mulberry tree).
This opened a new passage to masi and Bridal wear which was starting to complement the demand for weddings in Fiji.
The winning cloak made of masi kesakesa and mixed with masi kuvui was designed by Jean
Ragg, which paved the way for Contemporary masi wear.
Bridal wear was a prominent feature on the Fiji Fashion Show platforms and over the years
it had become an additional feature for Tourism Fiji’s Holiday attractions.
Bridal wear as of recent have been re-directed to become more personalised so the many Brides are given many options.
One could either choose to wear modern gowns or go local with traditional prints and motifs. Others have chosen Sari fabric in sheer and silk whilst others have remained traditional with the wraps of raw masi.
Whatever the preference, our local designers are on the standby to discuss specifications and needs.
Red Cross Fashion Show
This show continued from WELLA and saw the fusion of all cultures incorporated in collections for the different categories which was becoming very competitive.
Year after year the show grew in the number of Designers and finally the recognition of the great contribution the Fashion Industry brought to Fiji was prevalent.
A high level of recognition of our own models was also reinforced by the success on the local runway and how they marketed those garments.
A new breed of confident individuals emerged liberating the once a very demure and silenced lot of women in a good way.
There were little fashion shows like the PICAF Contemporary Art and Fashion show in 2004 hosted by the Alliance France and the late Wilson Hoerder and then the Melanisian Arts Festival Fashion show in Fiji resulted in Fiji being represented in New Zealand for the Westfield STYLE PASIFIKA Fashion Runway by Rosie Emberson-Semisi in 2007.
Also in American Samoa Fiji once again dominated the Fashion Runway during the 10th Pacific Festival of Arts Fashion Show and raised the standard of Fashion and Fiji being recognized as the Fashion HUB of the Pacific.
2000
Originality and unpretentious individual styles began to emerge with the Fiji Designers as FIJI FASHION WEEK took FIJI BY STORM.
It would be another 10 years before designers would develop their own individual styles.
Designers such as Hupfield Horder, Robert Kennedy, Michael Mausio, Zubber, Zilda, Rosie
Emberson Semisi, Ana Rabuka, Aisea Konrote, Lyn AhKoy, 8 Mountains, KuiViti, Samson Lee and the House of Koila to name a few had developed signature collections other the years.
Some have incorporated commerce and ART into their transformations, some communicated their expressions through different palettes on their traditional and cultural inheritance whilst others chose Storyboards of Emotions, trends and issues experienced in today’s world to advocate for awareness.
After Jean Ragg awed the nation with her winning cloak made of raw masi, local designers such as Di Vuya Raratabu started her business in Masi Bridal wear including the whole Wedding party attires.
This market has grown and many are embracing the traditional masi in contemporary designs and styles.
Miss South Pacific Pageant 2009 Suva was a hive of activity in 2009 hosting the Miss South Pacific Pageant and winning it for the 1st time ever and it was when Fiji found respective and recognition once again after the closure of TIKI TOGS Fashion House.
We showed our best with Mere Nailatikau winning the sarong, climate change, traditional wear categories and the overall Miss South Pacific Pageant.
Diversification
The spirit of equality inspired the trend of a whole new generation in consolidating different cultural influences in appearances like the Kala Vata which has become a Corporate Friday wear or uniform especially in the Hotels, the Asian influence in the mandarin collars and Cheung Sum and the Sarwar Kameez constructed in printed fabrics other than the norm.
Modern and cultural influence was once again displayed in the most sophisticated and patriotic way it could quite often be seen on the sporting arena.
This also created”SPORTING” Fashion frenzy and this took the schools by storm often creating havoc during school competitions.
Even our team to the World Cup had the “CIVAVONOVONO” sublimated into the rugby jerseys.
This was the adornment used before engaging in warfares in the old Fiji.
Tourism
The opportunity for Fiji Designers to penetrate the Tourism market had never been made easy.
Many of the big retailers expressed their concern about the lack of production and supply from local designers resulting in many looking to the Asian and overseas markets to cater for the tourists.
Because of our humid summer weather, resort wear in various styles was in demand as tourists flock to Fiji.
Designers were NOT able to supply.
The arrival of the growing market of Back-Packers in less expensive holiday locations allowed locals to look at supplying cheap merchandise and this is where our rural women and small community businesses was able to generate income.
Fiji Fashion designers who had established themselves were able to retail from well-know retail outlets and Fiji’s much loved designer in Robert Kennedy has been retailing for our local and tourism markets as well as the Diaspora on a large scale most recently from PROUDS stores Fiji wide.
2010
2010 saw the Naturalness, comfort and relaxation of fashion in the inclusion of styles for the Pacific women from sizes 16 and above.
Mass production put a lot of emphasis on independence, imagination and wit in signature designs from our influx of “Fiji designers” for the growing Tourism and local market.
STYLE Fiji 2012
STYLE Fiji is another PREMIER Fashion show that is staged in the west and this has been a show to raise funds for PROJECTS that in need of finance.
Selected designers continue to make this event an Annual success and the people behind it are friends and former Fiji Models in Zelda Thomas and Marlene Vuniwaqa.
Fiji Fashion Week
A young designer Donna Whippy surprised Fiji with the organized first ever Fiji Fashion Week in 2008 once again opening doors and opportunities for a very enthusiastic group of growing designers and models in Fiji.
This show has become the Premier Fashion show in Fiji and the Pacific and has been the success behind Emerging and Established designers.
The show has grown to be the biggest and it gets better every year.
The managing director of Fiji Fashion Week Ellen Whippy-Knight and her husband has been the force behind this fashion entity which has also prompted stakeholders to look further into the Fashion Education System and SMEs in creative industries.
Student designers
Fiji National University’s Department of Fashion & Design has seen an increasing number of Student designers make their presence felt at numerous fashion shows.
Fiji Fashion Weeks has provided the platform for these students and many have opted to build their passion into a business.
Models in FNU student designers collection with the former vice-chancellor Prof Ian Rouse.
Young designers
Young designers had started to emerge on the Fiji Fashion Scene and so there was a high level of recognition to change our education system to provide pathways in the CREATIVE ARTS especially the redevelopment of Fashion Education in the Home Economics syllabi in the school system to be more relevant for our young generation.
With the rise in unemployment and lack of jobs for our people with so much innate creativity, the emphasis was looking strong in recognizing the diversity of people and exploring ways to empower young people to participate fully the development of our Fiji by creating meaningful and modern economic activity can be generated through the arts in fashion and design.
By the year 2010 it was becoming clear that creative arts Education was becoming a beacon of hope for the future of our country especially in fashion.
New technology has provided young designers with new ideas and new techniques with social media on hand to provide just that with a press of the button.
Being exposed to new technology, information and Education, young designers are increasing.
Initiatives like the “Young Entrepreneur’s Scheme” has given young designers the opportunity to follow their passion and start their own businesses in design and retail.
Whilst the Fashion Industry continued to grow, its platform was also starting to be used as a platform to advocate for certain issues and to also fund-raise to assist many who needed assistance.
Fashion shows such as STYLE Fiji, Fijian festival, Women’s Expo, Fiji Fashion Week, Crest
Agriculture show and School Fashion shows we have created the uniqueness and potential of the Fashion Industry.
Emerging designers
New breeds of designers have emerged from the rural and urban centers and this is a welcoming breath of fresh air.
Designers like Erelia, Aqela Cakobau and most recently Wasa-ni-Tadra.
Several outlets like Shopholic and Wasa-ni-Tadra, Zubber, Proud stores, Governors and have opened their boutiques to the local designers so many are able to retail.
The arts and fashion hub
The Arts And Fashion Hub Was An Initiative by Creative Arts Viti to provide a space for the Fashion Designers, Visual Artists and Crafters who did not have an outlet to retail from.
This space has provided the Artisans income for their families during these challenging times but unfortunately our tenancy of 3 months came to an end and having to pay exorbitant rental was too expensive.
Creative Arts Viti however has opened doors for our artist with the art gallery and the market for our ladies and that continues today.
The fashion designers however have opted to sell on-line as we were not assisted by the Fiji Arts Council even though we fashion designers are life-long members of the council which we feel were discriminatory.
Fashion Council of Fiji (fcf)
The Fashion Council of Fiji is the umbrella body that oversees the affairs of the Fashion
Designers, Models and Hair-dressers of Fiji and has been in existence since early 2000 when Mark Halabe of Mark One Apparel was Chairman.
The council together with the TCF looks at ways to enhance and promote the council activities and assist Fashion Designers in area of funding, education and business.
It has its own constitution and members are from the Fashion Designers Association of Fiji, Hair dressers Association and Fiji Models Association.
The Council consists of a Chair and committee members and has a representative from FDAF.
Designers association (FDAF).
FDAF looks after the welfare of Fashion Designers in Fiji and has its own constitution with a chair and committee members.
For FDAF they have taken education as an area that could promote Fashion and Design in the Creative Industries to be a career choice in future.
Many people who are unemployed or who wish to earn an extra income has undertaken short courses to enable them to design and produce garments to sell at the many markets around the country and FDAF is also looking at the welfare of the designers in terms of assistance during this pandemic.
The Association consists of most designers in Fiji and is working with stakeholders in business activities and Capacity building for our members.
Women Craft Market (FNPF Boulevard)
This was originally an initiative by Creative Arts Viti to assist our local crafters and visual artists in providing a space to sell their products.
It started in October 2019 and now a few have opted to continue selling paying FNPF a small fee every week.
Many are selling printed yardage, scrunches, tote bags, jewelry, body oils and soaps, perfumes and handcraft.
We have assisted them acting as an incubator in administrative work for their on-going businesses.
We hope to continue to look at ways to assist them in marketing their products and implement business workshops.
We have textile printers selling their designs and this has been a bit hit for our local textile designers.
We have taken some of our crafters to markets around Fiji and they continue to be resilient and grow.
Fiji Fashion has certainly evolved with the revival of traditional craft techniques and ethnic influences in their many new prints draped over mannequins and on corporate uniforms and kala-vata trends.
Second-hand clothing
The issue of CLIMATE CHANGE and ENVIRONMENT plays a very important part in the Education of Fashion and Design and this is where the increase in 2nd Hand clothing outlets may be a way of addressing the 73 million tons of used clothing shipped to our shores.
We are able to reuse these garments at very affordable prices and also find vintage which has become a trend with the younger generation.
Nevertheless, we continue to reconcile our differences and opposition and consolidate our concerns on the effects of Global warming and pollution due to the production of textiles and use the catwalk to advocate for reduction in pollution and create awareness in re-cycling.
2020 – the era of digital fashion
As more and more players entered the Creative Industries in Fashion, Entertainment, Art & craft and Literature discussions centered on the Art Education continued to grow.
Many years of research and recommendations had finally being recognised as the number of unemployment and crime rose at an alarming rate.
While at the Fiji National University a research was conducted on the Creative Industries and Young Entrepreneurship as a way to address this growing social problem and this was further presented and discussed with the Ministry of Industries, Trade and Tourism.
The following year the “Young Entrepreneur’s Scheme” was launched.
This opened possibilities for our young generation especially those in the Creative Industries to look at sustainable pathways in the Arts and other areas.
2020 was going to be the decade of many changes as we witness the return of images of the past which can be found in bold silhouettes with traditional motifs as well as beautiful hues never been seen.
With access to information, education and modern technology a new breed of digital designers was born in Fiji.
The Digital transformation was a new challenge for the Fashion Industry in Fiji but also an advantage.
Whilst designers tried to adapt, there was a whole new approach to printing.
Many screen-printing and sublimation businesses surfaced and each offered unique and customer-based personalised services.
This resulted in competition and the fashion designers were offered many opportunities with reasonable and affordable prices.
The mind of the Fiji designers was working overtime to adapt to the availability of information and major transformation.
Artists from all disciplines were empowered as the new bearers of cultural traditions building on a collective digital-like system so modest economic activity can be generated.
E-commerce – Pandemic/Lockdown
Since the pandemic many in business especially in the Fashion Industry are using the E-Commerce platform to retail their products.
This is very convenient and those that did now use this platform are now using it at a very fast pace.
The diaspora is a huge market and we are anticipating volumes in orders for the festive season despite the pandemic.
I believe the COVID-19 came at a time when the fashion world had become unethically complacent and careless and this was a “wake-up” call to reevaluate and made sound decision that will impact the future of our universe.
In Fiji, Fashion designer woke-up to an uncertain future whilst garment factories rush to deliver outstanding orders before lockdown of borders.
There was a panic as retailers reduces working hours of employees and businesses closing.
The fashion industry however is very resilient and has provided for many in enabling individuals and groups to produce home-made re-usable face masks to be sold which was a bonus as people rushed to acquire one.
For two months face masks was the new trend and many designers went a step further in incorporating that into a trend.
Nevertheless, this Pandemic has seen backhouse production increase and prices drop as women look to address the issue of sustainability.
Climate change
We are all aware that climate change is a result of excessive pollution and the textile industry is the 2nd biggest pollutants in the world.
Not only are they the 2nd biggest in damaging our environment but also the biggest in unwanted waste in unused clothing most of which are made of polyester blends.
Of course our 2nd hand stores have provided a “short-term” solution to addressing the issues of excessive and unused stocks all over the world.
These garments will eventually be thrown away when there is no further need.
Some will remain for centuries and be an environment “nuisance” whilst the natural fibers will eventually rot and fade away.
The garments that remain will be a pest to the eco-system and will continue to be a threat to the environment as we have seen in the many sad stories of sea-life dying in polluted oceans and rubbish that threaten sea life.
There has to be an alternative consultation must continue with the big players in the fashion and textile industry.
Ethical fashion
The Fashion Revolution is an International body that looks at Ethical Fashion.
We have local representatives that continue to advocate for more awareness and change to factory working environments and pay issues that continue to be a world-wide problem. Nevertheless, there is continued pressure to better the working conditions of factory workers all over the world including clean and safe environment as well as reasonable working hours. Of course production rates are issues that individual countries deal with accordingly to specific issues.
Ethical Fashion is about you one considers to be right in terms of world-wide pollution in the production chain to the manufacture of textiles right until the proper dilapidation of unwanted garments.
Although ethical fashion must be seriously considered at all times, we must continue to work together in address this issue and do the right thing.
The future for Fiji fashion
The future of FIJI FASHION looks promising as we see more and more Fashion Designers emerge with new ideas.
From the many markets around Fiji to the High end RETAIL outlets, many are turning to fashion as a way for sustainability.
Never has Fiji seen so much emphasis on the creative industries and there are also on-going discussions on the revision of education system to provide that platform from early childhood.
Zubber Fashion show
Local Fiji designer Zelda Thomas continues to showcase her brilliance and the Zubber Fashion at the Marriot in Nadi was just another platform for her very colorful and stylish look that I consider to be very bold.
There were also designers like Ilai Jikoitoga and Naina who also made their presence known on the plank catwalk.
Wearing Fiji by Samson Lee
Another Fiji designer who featured a fashion show in September is also nurturing young designers and providing a platform to showcase their collections.
It was the 2nd show after Zubber and attendance was overwhelming with many coming out in numbers to support our local designers.
It was a show with a difference and had its own audience that are very supportive of the Industry.
KUIVITI by Epeli Tuibeqa
Epeli Tuibeqa with his KUIVITI Collection has been very prominent on the catwalk and most recently is having a Fashion show in Lami on Fiji Day.
Epeli’s desire to continue to promote his heritage through traditional motifs in prints and the use of masi in his collection only reaffirms his deep connection to his roots.
Tickets were sold out within weeks of it being launched and I look forward to seeing more of his collections in his masi gowns and also with his KUIVITI ready-to-wear garments that can be purchased on-line.
* Rosie Emberson Semisi’s contribution to the fashion industry in Fiji is unsurpassed. With a career spanning more than 30 years, Rosie has participated in more than 29 shows. The views expressed in this article are her own and does not reflect the views of this newspaper.
