Part 1
On July 22, 1844, a woman named Mary Davis Wallis embarked on a long voyage to the Pacific accompanying her husband to procure a cargo of beech de mer from Fiji.
This voyage gave Mary a chance to record the travelling and events that followed for her own amusement and was later advised by the missionaries she made acquaintance with in Fiji to have it published for the public.
She wrote her adventures in a book titled, ‘Life in Feejee,’ divided into 21 interesting chapters that informs readers of the encounters she made with the natives.
Mary arrived in Fiji on the ‘Bark Zotoff’ on December 5, 1844, after a pleasant ten-day trip from New Zealand where they had made a short stop.
The ship was anchored at Ovalau and then stopped at Moturiki before sailing towards Bau where they were received by a visit from Cakobau. Cakobau was saluted by the firing of three large guns and Mary could not help, but note how he was tall, good looking and full of dignity.
With his enormous quantity of hair on his head and several yards of native cloth draped around his body, he was attended by a crowd of his men and was in an angry mood.
“Bau as it seems is at enmity with the king of Rewa. Capt Hartwell, commander of the brig Gambia, of Salem came to Rewa, engaged some Rewa men and a white man who has made himself particularly obnoxious to Bau, to fish for him,” Mary wrote.
“He then came to Bau, keeping it secret from him that he had any thing to do with Rewa, and obtained some Vewa (Viwa) men to go to Bau in his service.
“Thakombau said that Capt. H. had come here and made a fool of him, and that Capt. Wallis would do the same; he wished them both to go to Rewa for their cargo, for he would have nothing to do with either; they were both one concern.”
Capt Benjamin Wallis, Mary’s husband informed Cakobau that he would do nothing of that sort as Hartwell had.
After a lengthy conversation and many presents, Cakobau calmed down but still declared that he would kill the Rewa men and burn the bech de mer houses.
The next day Mary and Mr Wallis were invited by the Reverend John Hunt at Viwa where three missionary families resided. After the visit, it was then known that Cakobau had gone to Ba with a fleet of thirty canoes filled with warriors.
“After the fleet had sailed, Samonunu, the principal wife of Thakombau, with several of her women, came off to the vessel to visit us.
“When she saw me, she caught both of my hands in hers, and exclaimed, ‘Venaka, venaka.’
“She is of quite a light colour, as were several that were with her; rather fleshy but has a fine eye and handsome features; her hair was nicely dressed and powdered with the ashes of the burnt bread-fruit leaves.”
After Samonunu left, the next to visit was old King Tanoa, a man with small stature and who was now quite deaf.
“His bear, however, was rather imposing, being about half a yard in length, and very white, though I am told that he usually has it dyed black.
“He has the reputation of being one of the greatest cannibals in Feejee.
“Owing to his age and infirmities, he seldom visits the vessels that come to Bau, but as Mr. W is an old and particular friend of His Highness, we are specially honoured.”
While Mr Wallis intended to visit the Macuata coast and the season being unfavourable for Mary to accompany him, arrangements were made for her to remain at Viwa with the Hunts.
During this time, Mary attended the divine service at the native chapel where about 200 natives were assembled to worship God.
“One thing amused me much. The chief had provided a man to keep the drowsy ones awake, and the children in order.
“The natives were seated on mats and the anti-sleeper was continually threading his way between them, with a small stick in his hand, which he never failed to use as occasion required.”
Mary spent her Christmas at Viwa and was awoken by a little band of choristers, singing the songs of Zion. “The missionaries had taught the little tawnies this beautiful custom, which is still extant in many parts of England.
“As sunrise, I listened to the sweet voice of Mrs Hunt, as she sung, ‘Christian, Awake.’ In the evening, Mrs Hunt invited the singers to partake of some tea and cake. “They prayed and sung, ate their cake ,drank their tea, and went home.”
Mary also had her own house built within the mission premises constructed of thatch as the rest of the native buildings were which was quite comfortable. The interior had one room with the floors boarded and lined with mats; it was furnished with a looking-glass, wash stand, table, chairs and writing desk.
“There are three glass windows, prettily ornamented with white fringed curtains; my bed also has white curtains. There is no house in Feejee half so pretty.”
Mary later witnessed a long procession of the Lasakau tribe, headed by their young chief Navinde headed towards the house of Nalela who had the ruling chief of the tribe but was rejected.
“Yesterday, the Lasakau people all assembled in the house of Nalela. Navinde told him that they had come to make peace with him, and invite him back to Bau.
“In the afternoon Navinde called to see me, accompanied by Vataie, who is his half sister. I asked her if she thought her brother was sincere in his professions to Nalela.
“She replied, ‘It is hard to say; he may be sincere, and he may only wish to get Nalela back to Bau that he may kill him by and by; for he has long been seeking his life.”
After spending a considerable time in Viwa and being frequently visited by the wives of Tanoa and Cakobau and hearing the stories of the battles that went on, Mr Wallis had soon returned from his trip.
“It being arranged that I should accompany my husband to Mathuata (Macuata), we visited Vewa (Viwa) for the purpose of taking leave of our very king friends, the missionaries.
“I went also to visit the Lasakau widow. She promised me that she would lotu as soon as the day of her mourning had expired which were seventy from the day that her husband was murdered.”
Soon after, the ship set sail and headed towards Bua for the purpose of procuring bech de mer.
