The allure of Colo-i-Suva

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The allure of Colo-i-Suva

Old memories came flooding back as I walked down the trail towards the waterfalls.

I could distinctly recall coming here as a youngster in the early 1980s with older brothers and close friends via a short-cut from Tovata through the back of Ram Sami’s poultry farm.

Having escaped with our lives from the vicious poultry farm dogs, we drank cool well-water from a nearby farm-house before progressing on to the old feeder road that snuck us into the heart of this verdant tropical rainforest.

The end of our journey, in a refreshing rainforest pool, was worth every drop of sweat we had spent getting there.

Time has certainly flown by but some things never change.

The place still has that crispy clean atmosphere and it almost begs belief that such a serene location lies only 10 minutes away from the chaos of Suva city.

Sun, sand and beaches.

That’s the mantra normally used to sell Fiji to the thousands of tourists that visit our shores each year.

Many are therefore perplexed to discover that we have some outstanding beautiful forest environments, a perfect example of which is Colo-i-Suva Forest Park.

Sitting 150 metres above sea level, the park has been in existence for about four decades.

Traditionally it has served as a quick and easy getaway for those seeking respite for the rigors of every day in the city and suburbs.

Bird life in this nature reserve is of international importance as there are about 30 bird species found in the park.

The Fiji Goshawk, which is endemic to Fiji, can be spotted in this lush rainforest along with the blue crested Broadbill, which is only found on Viti levu.

The barking pigeon, a widely hunted species, has been safe in its habitat at Colo-i-Suva. Other bird species found at the park include the scarlet robin, spotted fantail and fruit bats.

Of the 300 or so of the world’s species of tree ferns, 13 are located in this forest haven.

Other varieties of flora and fauna, a number of which are endemic to Fiji, have flourished in this forest park.

Colo-i-Suva Forest Reserve, which covers 913 acres was formerly established in 1964 and in 1970 it was finally made a Forest Park — 92 hectares of which was set aside for this purpose.

The land on which the park is located is owned by the mataqali Naulukarua (known in iTaukei the head of the clan), of the yavusa matanikorovatu of Naitasiri province.

Located at an altitude of between 121 to 182m, the forest is the vicinity of the remnants of an ancient volcanic plug.

Roughly four and a half kilometers of natural trails snake through the forests while there is an abundance of natural pools to swim in. The Waisila creek flows through the park making its way to the Waimanu River. The park also serves as the water catchment for Nausori and Nasinu creek.

In recent months the park has received a much needed facelift, with $104,000 allocated by the Ministry of Forestry to upgrade railings, walkways and other facilities including toilets and restrooms.

From a safety perspective, the park has been enhanced by the construction of proper railings and cementing of certain areas near natural water bodies used for bathing.

A children’s park and a bure to accommodate mataqali Nauluvakarua for entertaining visitors from cruise ships, is also being constructed.

This is all part of a general facelift of facilities at the park which stakeholders hope will give locals and tourists alike an even greater reason to visit the forest park.

“Colo-i-Suva has always been known as just a great place to go and swim in the waterfalls but what we’re trying to do is offer is more of a package deal,” said Maleli Nakasava, Forest Guard, Parks and Conservation.

“We are working closely with the landowners as part of delivering visitors a better deal and locals will also benefit from it,” he said.

This development has been well received with much anticipation by the members of mataqali Naulukarua.

“This is something we have been waiting for to happen for so long,” said Samuela Qaliduadua, head of the Naulukarua clan.

“With the development of the park and the benefits derived from increased visitors, we should be able to build a kindergarten and church for our people,” said Mr Qaliduadua.

As of late the members of mataqali Naulukarua in Colo-i-Suva have been treating tourists to the park with meke performances and selling traditional handicraft items.

Mr Qaliduadua said the park has always been set apart from villages, as even back in the old days its significance as a pristine forest eco-system was acknowledged.

“Our forefathers used to go there only to get fresh water. They never established any village in its vicinity.

“The people from the old times always kept the water safe in the forest and it was where they got their prawns and eels from,” he explained.

The forest also served as a vital source of raw material for making traditional Fijian medicine.

Inside the forest, there are many plant species that have been used by iTaukei for centuries to make herbal medicine for a variety of ailments.

Walking around the park, I saw native species like makita and dakua salusalu growing luxuriously alongside African mahogany trees that were planted in the 1940s and 50s.

Walking along the waterways, I did notice the absence of the prawns, fish and eels that used to thrive in these streams and pools when I visited as a child.

Park rangers have been working hard trying to keep the place clean of litter disposed by visitors, with most offenders being locals.

“The littering and vandalism is mostly done by locals. We are always trying to educate people on why they need to stop these sort of behaviour,” said Park Ranger Ilikena Toma, one of six rangers stationed in the area.

As I made my way out of the park, I listened and there it was … the distinct sound of a barking pigeon, although the bird remained invisible, hidden by the heavy cloak of greenery.

Importantly, the Forestry Department has been working alongside organisations including the University of the South Pacific and Bird-Life international in helping in terms of conservation of flora and fauna within the confines of the park.

“Colo-i-Suva is part of a forest that is recognised internationally as within one per cent of international areas of importance to wild life,” said Bird-Life International Fiji’s Programme Director Steve Cranwell.

“The forest park is also very important in that it acts like a big sponge that regulates water flow during big styrom events,” said Mr Cranwell.

Of equal importance, Colo-i-Suva will remain a sanctuary for birds and serve as a natural seed bank for many flora species in Fiji.

The forest park’s reputation as a recreational retreat looks set to be enhanced with the current developments in place

Colo-i-Suva Forest Park is a fine example of some of the diverse landscapes that Fiji has to offer, other than sun, sand and beaches.

Increased awareness coupled with education and conservation efforts is critical if future generations of Fiji islanders are to enjoy the park in decades to come.