If you travel the gravelly part of Nakelo Road that leads to a roundabout at Nasilai Village, you won’t resist marveling at the long stretch of beach many picnic goers have frequent in their quest to find sea, sun and sand.
This stretch of black sandy shorelines holds a few historical stories that span as far back as the early colonial days.
In 1928, it was the takeoff spot of the Southern Cross piloted by Sir Charles Kingsford Smith, during his epic trans-Pacific flight. Sir Charles and his crew – Charles Ulm (co-pilot), Harry Lyon (navigator) and James Warner (radio operator) could not take off from Albert Park, where their plane had landed on May 30, 1928.
The plane was transported to Nasilai beach at low tide to allow the plane to leave Fiji.
Nasilai beach also overlooks the boisterous Nasilai Reef, the watery grave of the ill-fated indenture ship, Syria which ran aground on the night of May 11, 1884.
The shipwreck may be just a piece of history to some but to villagers who live along the coastline adjacent to Nasilai Reef, the Syria story is something they hold close to their hearts.
It is more than a tale about sea tragedy.
It is a narrative that speaks volume of the capacity of the human heart to show compassion and kindness in the face of extreme adversity.
The Sunday Times revisited the villages of Vadrai and Nasilai in Nakelo, Tailevu this week on the very day the Syria ran aground Nasilai Reef some 139 years ago.
Our intention was to talk to descendants of those who were among the first responders during the sea mishap and hear fresh accounts of the rescue efforts based on what they have been told for many generations.
Vadrai bell keeper’s story
Vadrai Village historian and elder, Alifereti Qalo is the loyal custodian of a bell that was saved from the Syria, when it got shipwrecked.
He had the bell stored in his suitcase for the past 48 years.
“I inherited this bell from my dad who was a village and church elder during his time,” Qalo said.
“In 1966, when I was a young man, I almost sold the bell for 300 pounds,” he admitted during an interview with this newspaper.
“I used to drink in my younger days, you know those silly stuff we do when we are young. I stole the bell from my father.”
However, Qalo changed his mind before the sale took place.
Little did he know he would one day be the bell’s custodian.
“When I was the village headman in the late 1970s, the bell was used to call us to church. We’d first ring the bell and then use the wooden lali as a second bell.”
Qalo claimed his century-old possession was used as a dining bell on board the Syria.
“Over the years, as I grew more mature, the bell became a sacred item in my possession,” he said.
“Someone even tried to buy it for $US3000 ($F6665) but I refused to sell it.”
Qalo said he would keep the bell for as long as he lived because of its intrinsic value.
The village also had a steel pot saved from Syria.
Villagers used to cook in it but today the pot has gone missing.
Villagers believe the pot’s remains could be buried in an old lovo pit or fireplace.
Nasilai’s Syria bell
At Nasilai Village, the keeper of the second Syria bell is the matanivanua, Rupeni Daunasinu.
He said keeping the bell safe was a priority especially when it remained one of few pieces of items connected to the ship Syria.
“This bell may look rusty and old but elders who have passed told us it is proof of their role in efforts to get indentured labours to safety after the Syria ran aground.”
Alesi Ciriavesi, 52, said her parents and grandparents said the story of the Syria was a heart wrenching one.
“My grandfather used to tell me that early one morning when it was still dark, villagers heard wailing and cries of help coming from afar, from the direction of the reef. The wind had blown their voices to the village,” she said.
“When the sun rose, people noticed bodies of Indians at sea. Some were dead and some were still alive. Some heads were bobbing in the sea and they looked like drifting coconuts.
“Others were lying on the beach. Canoes were sent out immediately and people were plucked from the sea and put into them. My grandfather also said the sea was yellow for days because of the cargo of turmeric and spices that were thrown off the ship.”
Nasilai chief, Vanavasa Vono, 86, said according to what he heard, a man by the name Jotame Dravuni was the first person to sail out to the reef in his canoe to help salvage those in the water and get those who were still stuck inside the ship.
“Early in the morning, their voices were heard coming from a distance, out at sea. They spoke a language foreign to the ears so those who lived at the time couldn’t make out what they were saying.”
Ratu Vanavasa said according to stories, canoes sailed from other villages and everyone did whatever they could to help the authorities in the rescue effort.
“I was told by my father that Indians were first brought to Nasilai Village because we were the closest to the wreck and the wind direction easily brought them here. From here, they were moved to other places.”
The ghostly and horror cries
Ratu Vanavasa said in his young days, people would often hear the sound of wailing coming from the Syria wreck.
“Those mysterious noises were often heard back in those days of early Christianity. Now, because we’re living in the age of enlightenment, we
hardly hear those ghostly noises anymore,” he claimed.
Ciriavesi said when growing up the elderly would tell them stories about spirits of the dead crying in the night and speaking in a foreign language.
According to Qalo, there have been reports of people talking in Hindi on the beach at night or some have claimed smelling the aroma of spices at night.
“When it rains, whether night or day, we’d hear people lamenting. Sometimes people are heard conversing in Hindi, not Fiji Hindi but Hindi
spoken in India back in those days, because they sounded very different.”
The message of love
“Fijians should use the Girmit Day holiday to embrace each other in the spirit of peace, respect and goodwill. We are all part of God’s creation and we are all one and equal in his eyes,” Qalo said.
“I want future generations and the children of Vadrai who will come after me to know the truth, that our ancestors helped rescue indentured labourers from the Syria.”
“The bell we have may look rusty and old but you can still hear it toll. Moreover, it is proof of a tragic event that happened a long time ago and our ancestors were part of it.”
Ratu Vanavasa said the lesson learned from the Syria tragedy is that despite our differences we must aspire to be kind and compassionate to one another.
“Our ancestors helped Indians when help was needed most on that fateful day. They did not understand their language but they understood their pain and sufferings. The two races could not speak each other’s language but they understood the language of love.”
- Editor’s note:
History being the subject it is, a group’s version of events may not be the same as that held by another group. When publishing one account, it is not our intention to cause division or to disrespect other oral traditions. Those with a different version can contact us so we can publish your account of history too.