THERE have been numerous articles written and published about the origins of Suva and the eventual move to become the Capital City of Fiji in the early 1880s.
Suva itself is an iconic and historic landmark, with a land mass spanning hundreds of square kilometres that was initially intended for farming in the late 1860s.
A slow walk through the streets of Suva can leave one amazed and appreciative of the progress the country has made over many decades.
There are many modern buildings and structures beside some traditional colonial buildings, co-existing to remind people of Fiji’s rich heritage and history.
Today, many people count themselves lucky to live and breathe in an era where technology thrives in almost all aspects of modern day living.
At the push of a button, we are taken to the top floor of a skyscraper. At the push of a button, we can watch TV, listen to the radio, or communicate and converse with friends and families in another continent on the telephone.
The turn of a key allows us to drive or travel from Point A to Point B in a matter of minutes while the rudder of a boat allows us to navigate with ease at sea.
But life was not always like that in Suva. Just ask people like Manu Korovulavula, one of hundreds of others who are ageing gracefully and continue to hold memories of the past close to their heart.
People like Mr Korovulavula who have had to run barefoot from Point A to Point B, carry the sail on the boat from one end to the other to catch the right gust of wind for their boat travels. People who have had to wash recycled bottles and cut grass for a few shillings just to get by. The hard life is what they remember many years after achieving success.
These are memories of their early years growing up in Suva. Centenarians would also attest to how life back then was a far cry from what it is today.
How they wish life was as easy as it seems today compared with the hardships then to make ends meet.
And when you’re in the presence of someone as experienced and learned as Mr Korovulavula, you’ll soon discover that their memories of the past are not just stories to pass time around the tanoa, but rather experiences that make you appreciate the struggles, the challenges, the fun and often troublesome times that add value and meaning to our lives, and in Mr Korovulavula’s case, a memoir for his generation to treasure and appreciate.
Mr Korovulavula needs no introduction and is a familiar face and name when it comes to Fijian politics and the transport sector, among his other interests and contributions to Fiji sports, music and scouting fraternity.
Turning 83 on June 22 this year, Mr Korovulavula was the former minister for works, transport and public utilities in two separate periods.
In 1974, he established the Road Transport Department and was appointed its first controller.
In 2000, he helped establish the Land Transport Authority and became its first CEO. He held very senior posts with the Chartered Institute of Logistics and Transport (Fiji section), Fiji Sports Council, Fiji Badminton Association, Fiji Scouts Association and Fiji Basketball Federation, not forgetting his accomplishments as a composer, singer, publisher, author and officer of the Order of Fiji.
Despite his very colourful and successful repertoire and age, Mr Korovulavula remembers his childhood days as if it happened only yesterday and when he shares those experiences, you can almost feel as if you were right there beside him, living those moments with his friends and family, and occasionally getting up to mischief.
He tells these and many more experiences in the iTaukei language in his book Gone Ni Turaki, which was published in 2010.
Growing up in Toorak during WWII was an experience itself. The eldest child of Isireli Qerea Korovulavula and Bulou Merewalesi Viriviriatamata Narokete, Mr Korovulavula said he was very fond of his grandmother Ivamere Tagimuri Korovulavula.
She and his grandfather, Jovesa, played a vital role in shaping the man he is today, moulding him in love and instilling in him values and morals that have carried him through many trying times in life.
Special names
In the book’s foreword, former chief justice Sir Timoci Tuivaga described the tension felt by many Fijians in the Capital City as the war between the world’s superpowers gained momentum in late 1930s-1940s.
He remembered the feeling of unease among the people during WWII.
Sir Timoci talked about the good old days exploring parts of Suva such as Valekaresini, Naibenubenu and Valenimanumanu — names that seem unfamiliar to the generation of today.
According to Mr Korovulavula, those names also carried special meanings.
For instance, Valekaresini — an area known to many today as Raojibhai Patel St, Naibenubenu —the area where the FEA head office and new FNPF Greig St mall is located.
“That used to be an area where rubbish was dumped in Suva, hence the name Naibenubenu. There were other places in Suva such as Valenimanumanu. As you go up Reservoir Rd, there is the Australian High Commission on the top but on the left where the settlement is, that was where they kept the animals for quarantine and in Fijian, vale means house or shelter and manumanu means animal, so Valenimanumanu was like an animal shed.
“Another place in Suva was called Naiqaqi and this is where the first sugar cane mill was set up. It was located opposite Suvavou House where the TLTB building sits.
“There was also the Wavu nei Usaia — where the Scouts hall is located near Dudley High School along Holland St, there is a small creek where Nubukalou Creek starts. There used to be a plank that people used to go across.
“There was a man from Ra who lived there. He had his own shelter and his name was Usaia. So before people crossed the plank, they had to ask permission from Usaia so that crossing became known as Wavu nei Usaia.
“Vitimadarasi was another area as you head to USP from Flagstaff, there is a road turning left, Vesi St, this was an area where the indentured labourers or madarasi who came from India were held before they were sent to their employers.
“They were first quarantined on Nukulau Island before they were sent to the planters. There were other places in Suva such as Salabuto — this was at High St in Suva and it was named Salabuto because there were no street lights.
“There was also Valenitarawau, an area at the corner of Waimanu Rd and Suva St, where the Korea House restaurant is now located. There used to be a big tarawau tree there (large tree with small round edible fruit) hence the name Valenitarawau. There was also another place called Vakananumi, and this place was located along Knollys St, the area where the tennis courts are now located.”
Memories of WWII
Mr Korovulavula was a former student of Suva Methodist Boys’ School, which was opened in 1919 and located at the end of Eden St.
He used to live along Amy St, beside the current location of Kasabia’s bulk store and remembers the evacuation drills they would have as students during WWII.
“We had evacuation drills and exercises in preparation for the war. At 12midday, the alarm would sound and we had to make our way to the safety or evacuation point,” Mr Korovulavula recalled as he explained the experience in chapter 11 of his book, Gone ni Turaki.
During WWII, American and New Zealand soldiers had come to Fiji, on alert against the Japanese who wanted to dominate Asia and the Pacific at the time.
“We had to run to the soapstone caves all around Suva.
“These were man-made caves. After school, we’d come with our wheelbarrows and help the old people dig. There were no machines — just picks and shovels.
“My school uniform was white so by the time I reached home, my grandmother would get very angry with me because I would return home dirty — she had no idea I was helping at the caves. Those caves are now filled up or blocked with concrete blocks,” he said.
“We had so many of those caves around, even one near Dudley, and we had to have so many because there were a lot of people making their way to the caves for shelter.
“Nowadays, you can see some of the concrete blocks removed from the entrance of the caves. It doesn’t lead anywhere, it was created as a shelter during the war days.”
During one of the evacuation drills and mad rush to the caves, Mr Korovulavula said a Fijian of Indian decent could be heard saying, “ae qe, ae qe … sa lako mai, sa lako mai”, alerting people that something was coming but they did not know what.
The evacuation drills were soon stepped up a notch when planes flew overhead and dropped bags of flour to depict a real-life situation if ever the Japenese invaders struck.
Mr Korovulavula said when the alarm went off during that particular exercise, they again rushed to the safety point.
This time, he and teacher Mere Vodivodi made their way to the Butt St hall for safety.
He described seeing bags of flour scattered along Selbourne St, Pratt St and Hercules St.
It was only an evacuation drill back then but it was one that had many people living in fear of the war and its reach in the Pacific.
* Continued next week: Living through the ages and the unseen mistake at Nubukalou Creek.
