The arrival of the Tongans in the mid 19th century brought Polynesian culture and foods to the region, but as decades went on, the Fijians’ tolerance of their new family members went from tolerance to one of threat. We’re in the idyllic location of Qilaqila, the front line of the battles with the Tongans. This is a Taste of Paradise.
It is the 1840s and native warfare and barbarity has reached a scale never before seen in Fiji. In 1843 there were no less than seven wars in progress across the islands, but the biggest threat did not come from traditional rivals, it was from a prince of royal Tongan blood, his name —Ma’afu.
Seen as a threat to the King of Tonga, Ma’afu was sent to Fiji to fulfil his own ambitions of empire as his warring nature may one day threaten the king. He came heralded to the eastern islands as any prince would, as many Tongans were already living there.
His suave manner disarmed any suspicion or hidden agenda. But within five years of his arrival to Fiji, he was to master all of the eastern islands of Lau. Within 10 years he had challenged the supremacy of Cakobau, the powerful Bauan chief. And within 15 years he had come close to making Fiji a dependency of the Tongan crown. By the early 19th century, the Tongan influence had gone from one of tolerance to threat. The Tongans were coming!
TASTE OF PARADISE STORYTELLING
One of the new features of season four is not just the new foods, but the storytelling. Each episode was filmed in the remote islands and each destination has a special place in Fiji’s history.
In tonight’s show, the story of the Tongans and the battles with Ma’afu are revealed to explain why eastern Lau is so different, and how the tyranny of distance has forced the islanders to eat healthier than their Viti Levu clans. The lessons of diet, lifestyle and historical events are startling making each episode not just about cooking, but hopefully gives some insight into the past. The history of precolonial Fiji is rarely taught in schools but thanks to well researched publications like the History of Fiji Vol 1 by R.A. Derrick, we can get a clearer understanding of why things happened and how they affect Fiji today. Derrick’s book was first published in 1946 and has been reprinted many more times.
The author’s use of first-hand accounts from missionaries, British officials, ship diaries, newspaper stories and government archival records, provides the reader with a more broader picture of what was happening in Fiji before the cession to Great Britain. It is a must-read for any Fijian interested in knowing both sides of history; from both iTaukei and British perspectives.
The oral traditions and stories recorded nearly two hundred years ago are often referenced in this book to build a clear picture of the heroes, villians and victims throughout Fiji’s precolonial history.
BATTLE OF CIVILISATIONS EPISODE
In tonight’s episode, titled “Battle of Civilisations”, we learn that the Tongan warlord Ma’afu cleverly used the Catholic missionaries to conquer and defeat most of the eastern islands.
By claiming he was protecting the European and Tongan teachers, he was able to land his party on each and every island with very little challenge. His first port of call was the island of Vanuabalavu. Taking advantage of a quarrel between the two villages Lomolomo and Yaro, Ma’afu cleverly assumed control over both the victors and the vanquished, establishing his new base at Lomolomo.
But for his enemies to reach his new village, they would have to run the gauntlet of his most deadly warriors, hiding in a maze of underwater caves at Qilaqila, the Bay of Islands.
This is one of the picturesque locations in Fiji and reminds me of the ancient Halong Bay in Vietnam but without Fiji’s colourful legends of warfare and ambush. The caves here are both tranquil and dark but they also hide dark secrets of strategic war meetings as the Tongan warriors awaited their enemy. Our new drone and DSLR camera technology captured some awesome images of the Bay of Islands and Vanuabalavu, so if you’ve never seen the clear turquiose waters there, you must catch tonight’s episode!
I also get to cook with some of the villagers from Daliconi; have kava with some of the men; and then jump back onboard the Reef Endevour to show how two classic Fijian dishes are combined into one fine dining dish that is on my new signature restaurant menu.
FAMOUS PEOPLE FROM VANUABALAVU
Ma’afu’s attempt to conquer more of Fiji would eventually come to halt when on October 11, 1874, Fiji became a protectorate of Great Britain, finally putting Ma’afu’s desires to rest.
But far from disappearing into the annals of history, the island of Vanuabalavu was to bear descendants who would one day play significant roles in shaping Fiji’s politics and the modern city diet. With just over 1000 inhabitants, spread across 17 villages, Vanuabalavu has produced some of the highest ranking government officials who have influenced the country’s direction since nationhood.
According to Wikipedia, the best-known vasu (where his mother is from) of Vanuabalavu is Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara, past president and longtime PM of Fiji, also Laisenia Qarase, Fiji’s prime minister from 2000 to 2006, who hails from the village of Mavana.
Other prominent Vanuabalavu natives are the academic leader Esther Williams, from Levukana Village, former attorney-general Qoriniasi Bale from Levukana village, and prominent former politician Filipe Bole also from Mualevu village. Charles Walker, a former politician and Fiji diplomat hails from Sawana Village.
HOT BREAD KITCHEN
So who hailed from Vanuabalavu and today puts the bread on the table for a lot of Fijian families? It is Adi Mere Samisoni, businesswoman and former politician, who comes from Ma’afu’s chiefly village of Lomaloma. She is the founder of Hot Bread Kitchens.
Her contribution to the modern Fijian diet must be recognised as the long loaf, cream bun and meat pie has become synonymous with her bakery chains. It’s hard resisting walking past one of her many stores, as the smell of the bakery is addictively irresistible. Not bad for a girl all the way from Lomaloma, Vanuabalavu.
* Lance Seeto is the award winning chef based on Mana Island, and is Fiji Airway’s culinary ambassador and host of Fiji TV’s Taste of Paradise. Taste of Paradise begins tonight 7.30pm on Fiji One and online at tasteofparadise.tv
