On his last stop in the Lau islands, Chef Seeto visits the ancient Lapita village of Udu on the outer rim of Totoya’s sunken volcano. As one of the farthest southern islands in Fiji, the people of Udu have a powerful message for the rest of the country — this is how Fijians used to live and eat.
As one of the last stops on Captain Cook Cruises’ 11-day Lau Discovery voyage, we arrive at the edge of a submerged 3km deep volcanic cone. This is Totoya Island. The volcano was active 4.9 million years ago but it was only around 3000 years ago that the Lapita people, the ancient Fijian ancestors, first colonised Totoya. What is intriguing about this far southern island is their diet, lifestyle and innocence, because it offers a glimpse into how Fiji used to be before European contact.
LAPITA SITES DISCOVERED
In a 1999 National Geographic Society research paper titled, “EnvironmentaI change and human prehistory on Totoya island, Fiji”, archaeologist Jeffrey T. Clark revealed that two decorated Lapita sherds were excavated at Lawakilevu Village near Udu and Waroka. The pottery fragments suggested that initial settlement of Totoya was along the outer shore around 1000 BC and eventually settling along the inner shore of the horseshoe-shaped island. More sherds were discovered at 84 sites as well as hill top and ring-ditch forts in and around the chiefly villages of Tovu, Ketei and Dravuwalu.
CHILDHOOD INNOCENCE
I love how Fiji’s primary schools teach morals and discipline to the very young; not in their native language, but in English. As repeated in many schools, a giant blackboard teaches the children words about kindness, respect and love. I wish all schools around the world taught these same principles of humanity; something Fiji does very naturally. But it is the unique voices of the Totoyan children that has me mesmerised. The children of Kabara, Makogai and Oneata had angelic voices, but the intonation, pitch and range of the Udu Village school children just blew me away. The children of Udu Village eat just as their ancestors did; straight from the land and sea. It’s easy here because there are no shops or temptations; except on special occasions when the monthly ship delivers food supplies. Out here on Totoya, juice means real juice from fruits and not a bottle or can. And when you want fresh juice, you just need to climb a tree.
ORGANIC DIET AND LIFESTYLE
Living near volcanoes is something the Fijian ancestors knew well. Volcanic soil is high in minerals and for islands like Totoya, growing vegetables in the village just needs someone with a green thumb and the gardener’s touch. One village elder was insistent on taking me to his organic farm where he is growing an amazing array of root crops, cabbage and plenty of leafy greens. I think he was proud more than anything that his Garden of Eden was providing his people with so much fresh produce. The rich soil provides volcanic islands like Taveuni and Totoya with the means to grow just about any tropical fruit and vegetables. And not surprising, they grow much bigger and without the need for chemical fertilisers! One of the lessons from Ude Village was to teach the younger generation more about farming and where the fresh food comes from, and coincide with this year’s FNU International Food Festival theme on home gardening. Teaching our children how to grow vegetables and herbs from a seed will go a long way to getting them to eat more fresh foods because they nurtured and grew the produce themselves, giving them ownership and inspiring the next generation to cook local.
MORE FISH RECIPES PLEASE
As we wandered through his farm and the rest of the village, the residents had a special request of me. “Can you show us more recipes for fish?” There is no shortage of fish out this far from Viti Levu and the typical Totoyan diet is fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner, just as it was for all Fijians in days gone by. Some say, that is why the Lauan people seem to be so much smarter than those on the mainland as fresh fish, especially tuna and walu with their brain-smart, omega-3 vitamin content. A typical Western breakfast consists of eggs and bacon, breads, cereals and tea or coffee. But there’s no such thing as a standard breakfast in the outer islands; it’s whatever you can catch or harvest. When we arrived at Totoya, the villagers had just eaten a meal of fresh fish, boiled yams and fresh fruits for breakfast, so I decided to show them a way to combine all those ingredients together to make fish rissoles with a fruity papaya compote. In this one dish, I was attempting to change the perception that fruits are only eaten at the end of a meal, and that vegetables and root crops can be combined with fish (or any other seafoods or meats) to create new dishes.
BON VOYAGE LAU
I hope you enjoyed our journey through the Lau Group of islands. The connection between the Tongans, the missionaries and the chiefs was paramount to the transformation from savage natives to a civilised people. The Fiji we know today owes much of its history and development to the Lauan people and the distinguished politicians and king makers who have helped steer Fiji to become the South Pacific’s economic hub for agriculture and tourism. We leave the Lau islands and next week begin our voyage in the Yasawas.
* Lance Seeto is the award winning chef based on Mana Island, and is Fiji Airway’s culinary ambassador. Catch Taste of Paradise Sunday 7.30pm, only on Fiji One or watch online at www.tasteofparadise.tv
