Various lines of botanical evidence suggest that taro or dalo, originated in South Central Asia, probably in India or the Malay Peninsula, and spread eastward to the rest of South East Asia, China, Japan, Papua New Guinea and eventually the Pacific Islands.
The long journey of taro across vast oceans was documented by the seafaring Polynesian explorers, one of more than 20 plants they loaded in canoes as they settled on the Pacific Islands.
Indigenous Hawaiians have many myths and legends about the taro, some linked to the time of creation and rebirth.
Not surprising, the greatest intensity of its cultivation, and its highest percentage contribution to the diet, occurs here in the Pacific Islands, including the highly nutritious leaves we know as rourou. Very few recipes are as well known as the Polynesian palusami in coconut milk and the crispy fried and rolled Indian sena, but if we retrace the journey of taro leaves there are many more ways to enjoy this vitamin-enriched green leaf.
HEALTH BENEFITS OF TARO LEAVES
Taro’s scientific name is Colocasia esculenta, a plant that is mainly grown in tropical and sub-tropical climates.
It is native to Southeast Asia and Southern India. Taro cannot bear cold temperatures. Hence, its cultivation is limited to warmer temperatures.
Both taro roots and taro leaves are edible and safe after they are cooked. Though taro is primarily grown for its roots, its leaves have a special importance, which many of us are unaware.
Taro leaves are bright or deep green and are heart-shaped or like giant elephant’s ears, but are rich in calcium for growing bones and teeth.
If you love the taste of spinach, then you will like the flavour of taro leaves too. They have a subtle essence, giving out a satisfying nuttiness flavour with a healthy iron finish. Though the leaves of taro are extremely healthy, they are highly toxic in their raw state. So, never eat them unless they are cooked.
WHY DO TARO LEAVES GIVE ITCHY THROAT?
When I first arrived to Fiji I wanted to try as many of the local foods — raw. But when it came to rourou leaves, my staff were shocked to watch me break off a little uncooked taro leaf.
“Stop! You can’t eat that one raw” one of my older chefs warned. Too late, I swallowed the green leaf uncooked and sure enough my throat, tongue and mouth were unmistakably itchy.
I later found out that uncooked taro leaves contain a natural plant pesticide substance known as calcium oxalate. These tiny needle-like crystals were the real culprit.
Eating raw or half-cooked taro leaves releases this crystalline toxin that causes irritation to the oral cavity down to the throat. It is the ancient plant’s natural defence to protect it against leaf-eating bugs and hungry humans.
The best advice to get rid of all the unpleasant itching is to apply heat to the taro leaf through long duration and thorough cooking at high temperature to help melt away the crystal shards.
A hot lovo oven will do the trick, as will boiling the leaves without a lid to help melt and evaporate the substance. Removing the stem along its spine or picking very young taro leaf will also help to reduce the amount of calcium oxalate.
The older the plant’s leaves, the more crystalline are hidden on the surface and in the stem. Mother nature is extremely adaptable and clever.
To help prevent the leaves from being eaten in the field or farm, the taro plant evolved its own protection.
If it gives a human an itchy throat, you can bet that most insects would liken it to eating glass and stay clear. One of the many Fijian cooking techniques to avoid itchy throat include looking for young leaves where its defences are still developing, or boiling the leaves in an open pot to allow the crystals to dissolve and evaporate.
ASIAN TARO LEAF RECIPES
If you are bored of eating the same old rourou recipes then look no further than this plant’s historical travels to discover new recipes in different countries.
The Filipino “laing” dish may not be visually enticing to some but this is definitely one delicious recipe with pork and pungent shrimp paste, perfect for lunch or dinner that gets even better and spicier when reheated the next day.
Just give a mouthful along with some steamy rice a good chance and you would never mind the appearance.
An old Indian recipe that is similar to sena uses the leaves as a parcel instead of a roll and contains a tempered spiced dhal that can be fried or steamed. Another more simple way to enjoy taro leaves is to use them in soup; especially chicken soup.
The vitamin-rich leaves are simply dropped into a pot of boiling hot chicken pieces to produce a very healthy meal that is full of nutrition.
So what are you waiting for? The ancient Polynesian settlers brought this plant from across the oceans to Fiji for a reason — food and medicine.
* Visit Chef Lance Seeto’s latest culinary experience at Malamala Beach Club www.malamalabechclub.com
