Captain Cook Cruises’ voyage to the Northern Yasawas takes the Taste of Paradise team to the cyclone afflicted village of Gunu on Naviti Island to discover a bond between the villagers not seen elsewhere.
This is a special cyclone cooking episode filled with dishes designed to energise and boost immunity whilst bunkered down against the storm.
Cyclones, tsunami warnings and floodings are a fact of life in the South Pacific. We are an island people. Sometimes they just bring strong winds, but every few years, they can be devastating. In 2012, Tropical Cyclone Evan caused more than $US 300 million in damage across the region especially in Samoa and Fiji.
Fiji’s tourism industry suffered a huge setback, as tourists stayed home for the holiday season, and tourism operators counted their massive losses and structural damage. Especially Fiji’s island resorts in the popular Mamanuca island group, my home. In March 2015, Severe Tropical Cyclone Pam was the most intense tropical cyclones in the region and regarded as one of the worst natural disasters in the history of Vanuatu.
With wind speeds up to 270 km/hr and reaching Category 5, 15-16 people lost their lives. The storm’s impact was felt in the Solomon Islands, Tuvalu, and even as far as New Zealand. Total damage was estimated to be more than $US 360 million.
SMALLER ISLANDS ARE SITTING DUCKS
While hotels, resorts and urban Fijans have internet access to the myriad of weather and cyclone tracking services, spare a thought for villagers on small remote islands; tiny specks of rock in the middle of a vast ocean.
Up against the ferocity of a Category 5 cyclone, they are like sitting ducks. Satellite television and radio are vital communication tools during a cyclone warning. Local weather updates in the native language on the screen or on the air are essential in providing a final warning of its severity and path. As soon as communication is lost, the villaers are on their own.
But thanks to significant investment in natural disaster co-ordination by the Government and overseas aid agencies, many islands are now much better prepared to weather out the storm. And that’s what brings me to the Yasawa islands, in Fiji’s north west. The people here are some of the toughest in Fiji; and near cyclone proof.
CYCLONE PROOF PEOPLE
The village of Gunu is one of six settlements on the island of Naviti, in the northern Yasawa islands. At first glance it looks like your typical Fijian village with bure, farms, a church and a primary school. But Gunu is of special significance, as this village is one of many that goes through destruction and renewal nearly every cyclone season, forcing its villagers to become one of the most resilient and patient people in Fiji.
If a cyclone forms to Fiji’s west or north west, these guys get hammered first. In 2012, Cyclone Evan brought 200 km/hr winds to the 300-strong community, leaving a path of destruction, with homes and crops destroyed; families homeless. Thankfully, Gunu and some neighbouring villages were given support through a Pacific community initiative, help funded by the Australian government.
The results of that initiative can be seen everywhere today. Aussie taxpayers would be grateful to know their overseas aid contributions are making a difference in rebuilding stronger homes and installing solar energy for power and communications.
This close knit community, forced to work together for the survival of the village, continue that kinship out of cyclone season too. Men work alongside the women in Gunu. This form of equality and respect could only be borne out of living through natural disasters. Welcome to Gunu Village, Naviti. An island that epitomises resilience and perseverance.
HUNGRY MOUTHS TO FEED
I sometimes forget that a lot of the flavours and dishes that I cook on Taste of Paradise are very new and unknown to the outer islands.
As the smells of soups, curry and pancakes began to spread across the village, it didn’t take long for Gunu villagers to realize that we were filming a cooking show on their island. As we moved from location to location, the crowd grew bigger and the people more bolder, as families came out with empty bowls and containers to fill. Even the bowls got bigger!
GIFTS FROM THE GODS
As devastating as a tropical cyclone can be, the gale force winds also loosen coconuts and fruits, and uproot vegetables like yams and taro. This provides easy pickings to cook an energy packed meal that everyone is going to need to begin the arduous task of cleanup.
When it is safe to go outside, one of the first tasks is for villagers to collect all the fallen produce before they rot. In Gunu, this includes taro, pawpaw, coconuts, pineapples and bananas. Along with their stored dry goods of flour, sugar and tinned foods, the after-cyclone feast can be turned into a delicious gift from the Gods; providing energy and sustenance to begin the huge task of cleanup and repairs.
Tonight’s episode, filmed entirely in high definition using DSLR pro cameras, encourages all Fijians to stock up on dry goods and cook to stay healthy. Global warming and climate change have forever changed the predictions of El Niño and La Niña weather patterns that affect weather conditions in the Pacific Ocean, including cyclone formations. We just need to keep the cupboards stocked full — just in case.
* Lance Seeto is the award winning chef based on Mana Island, and is Fiji Airway’s Culinary Ambassador. Catch Taste of Paradise Sunday 7.30pm, only on Fiji One or watch online at www.tasteofparadise.tv