Shortly after passing Queen Victoria School, our vehicle hit the Dawasamu gravel road taking us along a stretch of Tailevu coastline that is way off the beaten path for most.
As we arrived at Takalana Bay Beach Resort, my sense of expectation was heightened by the sight of equally excited tourists who were milling around awaiting further instructions from friendly resort staff.
We were all there to witness something special at nearby Moon Reef — the spinner dolphins that call the place home.
After a hearty breakfast, our group, which comprised of 14 tourists from China and Hong Kong along with four local guides, made our way to the shoreline where we boarded the launch to transport us to Moon Reef.
The weather was perfect for our mid-morning excursion as we journeyed to Moon Reef, roughly 7.3 kilometres from the coastline, which is known for its black sand.
In our wake on the mainland, majestic Tova Peak peered over us from above a pine forest making quite a picturesque backdrop.
The islands of Wakaya, Ovalau and Naigani were clearly visible in the ocean ahead of us as our boat ploughed through the waves.
Covering over 1500 square metres, Moon Reef is one of a number of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) in Fiji.
Hawkesbill turtles and a wide variety of reef fish and other marine life are to be found at the site although the star attractions are undoubtedly the spinner dolphins that have been known to live there for as long as people can recall.
After 20 minutes, we finally reached the spot. The dolphins had already made their presence felt with dozens of dorsal fins clearly visible in and around the reef as we neared.
Moon Reef derives its name from a satellite view of the reef which shows it in the form of a half moon.
Suddenly our boat was flanked on both sides by these magnificent mammals as if they realised we had entered their space and were welcoming us in their own way.
“They normally get excited when they see people on the reef and know there are visitors there,” explained Jim Karanavanua, our chief tour guide for the day.
The babale, as they are known in iTaukei, seemed to enjoy swimming in pairs or in threes and fours and every once in a while they forcefully exhaled when first surfacing for air to clear the recessed blowhole area of water, with a sound not unlike one made by a scuba diver.
“Normally there are about 60 of them at the reef in one day but today there seem to be a lot more of them — it’s probably the fine weather and maybe they are just happy to see you,” offered Mr Karanavanua light-heartedly.
It is estimated that a pod of around 120 spinner dolphins live at Moon Reef which the people of the nearby coastline have a very close connection to.
Literally, out of the blue, one dolphin leapt out of the water and spun in the air to the squeals of delight from those on board who seemed more like kids in a candy store as they soaked in every movement of these superb ocean athletes.
This performance was followed up by others and as Karanavanua further explained, “They are just showing off to you people now”.
I particularly found the dolphins fascinating to watch as they effortlessly glided through the ocean, frolicking with each other and basking in the sun.
Some were slapping their tails playfully against the water while others were content with just following our boat as we circled the reef.
“These dolphins basically hang out and rest at the reef during the day and go out and feed in the ocean at night,” said Mr Karanavanua.
The visitors were visibly awestruck.
“This is great. We’re really loving it here. The dolphins are amazing and we’re glad we came,” said Amada Zhou, 26, a tourist from Chen Dhou in China.
After about half an hour more of the dolphins started spinning in the air, showcasing their amazing dexterity.
These nocturnal feeders known scientifically as stenulla longirostis are often found in tropical and sub tropical waters where they feed mostly on squid and shrimp.
It isn’t known how long they have lived at Moon Reef for but from all accounts, it has been their natural resting habitat.
Sadly we had to make our way back to the shoreline and I sought to find out more about the special relationship these mammals shared with the people of Silana.
The dolphins of the Moon Reef have contributed to the establishment of two resorts in the area — Natalei Eco Lodge and Takalana Bay Beach Resort.
The resorts host tourists from all over the world eager to witness these fascinating creatures in their natural habitat.
Hence, the dolphins somewhat contribute to the economic well-being of the people of the area — their allure and the tourism built on it coupled with a sustainable approach aided by the partnerhip with organisations like the University of the South Pacific and WDCS (Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society).
“We started the eco-lodge in 2005 because of its obvious potential and there is always a steady flow of visitors wanting to see the dolphins. They (dolphins) are the main reasons why they come over here,” said Adi Sova Ratukali Ramoli, Takalana Bay Beach Resort Assistant Manager and native of Natalei-ra Village.
A carefully measured apporach is taken to ensure that balance of nature for the dolphins at Moon Reef is not upset as critically this is their resting spot.
“We don’t feed them too because we may run the risk of upsetting their behavioural patterns and that’s the way it will remain,” said Adi Sova.
Touching and swimming with the dolphins is advised against for similar reasons.
The neighbouring village of Silana which is the custodian of Moon Reef, in fact have a mythological connection to the reef and the spinner dolphins.
As Silana village spokesman, Nereo Vatulawa, said his people had maintained a remarkable relationship with the dolphins. and from past decades no one had ever tried catching them for food or other purposes. They are just basically left to thrive at their natural habitat on Moon Reef.
And this respect for these mammals continues to this day.
But there is more to this story than mutual respect and admiration as creatures of God.
The members of two mataqali, Devodevo and Draunivau in Silana Village believe that Moon Reef was their old koromakawa, an old village that became submerged in eons past, like the mythological village of Burotukula.
“That old village had its own rubbish pit, meeting halls and even its own rara ni veitiqa (old game played by iTaukei),” said Mr Vatulawa.
“When the village sank, they moved to the koromakawa on the mainland and then on to the present site where Silana Village is now located,” he added.
The dolphins apparently share a unique bond with the people.
“Na babale vaka tu na neitou ose (the dolphins are like horses to the Silana people),” said Mr Vatulawa.
Up to this day Silana people hold fast to a legend which goes like this — they believe that anyone who dies in the village will be borne on the back of a spinner dolphin from Udukula Point on the mainland and taken to Makaliti (the old name used for Moon Reef) where they would rest in peace.
“Before people go out to watch the dolphins they usually come and seek our consent and they only make themselves visible after getting our consent,” said Mr Vatulawa.
“They have already asked our permission, that is why you were able to see the dolphins today.”
Mr Vatulawa said the people of Silana and nearby villages had always respected the dolphins and were keen to continue in this vein, mindful that this was beneficial for the future development of the area.
“The blessing that come from the dolphins has been seen in the whole tikina of Dawasamu,” he said.
“From before, our forefathers have kept a good relationship with the dolphins and we are now seeing the benefits of this.”
There is one secondary and two primary schools in the Dawasamu area who are direct beneficiaries of development brought in through such tourism related activities.
The dolphins of Takalana Bay are a classic example of living resources or yau bula that exist in Fiji.
They also serve as a fine study on how development can be channelled into rural communities by combining sustainable development practices and tourism.
Without anything upsetting the balance of nature at Moon Reef, spinner dolphins will continue to be a major attraction to this seldom traversed area of Tailevu.
The special relationship between the people of Silana Village and the spinner dolphins of Moon Reef will continue for some time yet.
