A few metres outside of Labasa stands a relic from the colonial period. An old building which was once a bustling supermarket now stands as a silent sentinel to the past, preserving the architectural and cultural heritage of colonial Fiji.
It is located at Vulovi, opposite the All-Saints Secondary School.
To understand the importance of the old building in Vulovi, it’s essential to delve into the history of Fiji during the colonial period first.
The British Colonial Administration established their presence in Fiji in the late 19th Century, reshaping the island’s political, social, and economic landscape.
In 1874, Fiji became a British colony, and the colonial government set about creating the infrastructure needed to administer and develop the islands.
This included establishing government stations, communication networks, and commercial hubs.
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the development of towns and urban areas, including Labasa, which began to grow as a significant regional centre.
I remember hearing stories of this from my late grandmother as I lie on her bed some Sundays after lunch where she would recall stories of her childhood growing up in Labasa.
It’s understood that Labasa started developing soon after the construction of the Colonial Sugar Refining Company Mill, now known as the Fiji Sugar Corporation
According to the FSC website, the Labasa Sugar Mill opened in 1894.
“The Colonial Sugar Refining Company Limited was formed in Sydney in 1855. The company was a pioneer in the Australian and Fiji sugar industries.
“The company grew to become one of the largest sugar producing companies in the world.”
The website stated each sugar mill had a company town and a railway network.
“Four of the six mills are currently owned by FSC, three of which are still in operation,” the website article continued.
“Most of CSR’s original sugar mills, company towns, seaside and mountain holiday retreats, railways and infrastructure still exist.
“They remain on their original sites and layouts and are still performing and utilising the same work practices and technologies as to when they were built.”
Prominent businessman Paul Jaduram said CSR shaped and developed the nation of Fiji.
“When more Whites started coming in, they built Morris Hedstrom in Vulovi. They built it there because it was closer to where their trade was, in Vaturekuka, the fort,” he said.
“They had everything on the other side of the Labasa Bridge (Vaturekuka side).”
Mr Jaduram said no locals were allowed in the shops back then.
“The MH Supermarket in Vulovi was set up by the Europeans because it was only for the Whites.”
This is a part of Fiji’s history I was shocked to hear as I do not remember being taught this in school.
Apart from this, he said the Whites built the post office, police station, magistrate’s court, all licensing authorities in Vaturekuka.
“We used to go up there with our bicycles and pay for our bicycle licence, dog licence, and radio licence,” he said, “while the market was built where the FSC boiler is.
“They built it there because the expatriates were working at the mill and either lived at the FSC compound or in Vaturekuka.”
He said the Whites chose Vaturekuka as their fort because it’s perched on a hill, and it allowed them the opportunity to be on the lookout in case of invasion by the natives
“From there they could also see if the girmitiya were working or not in the fields.”
Not allowing of any race in their facilities prompted Mr Jaduram’s grandfather, Jagannath and his brother, Nanhu to construct a general merchant store.
These men came to Fiji in the late 18th Century as girmitiyas.
“They felt the need to provide a service that catered for other races apart from the whites.”
He said his shop was built where the present-day Hotel Takia stands.
“A wide variety of merchandise were sold at the store,” he added.
Then Labasa Town slowly developed, thanks to the two brothers.
“They then built the Majestic Theatre which was located where the current R.B Patel Supermarket now stands before expanding their company and opening up other stores and businesses.”
According to the Babasiga website, Labasa Town was established in 1922.
“There were homes before shops were located with an earth road having deep side drains, the Babsiga stated.
“During the spring tide you could fish in the middle of the commercial sites that were surrounded by cane, rice, coconut, and cattle farms.”
The present site of the Civic Centre was where the James McCober Family occupied four bure houses, and the site was covered with tiri patches that became lowland swaps at high tide.
“There were no water supply, electricity or telephone services and people used well and tank water, kerosene hurricane lamps, and horses as the means of transportation,” the website added
Mr Jaduram said some of the shops opened back then in Labasa were in the form of shacks.
“They used to get all his goods from Suva on his boat and anchor it at the jetty and then the goods were transferred to a cart pulled by bullocks and that was how they serviced the other part of the community,” he said.
When his parents married, Mr Jaduram’s father, who was already managing his own business, took over Jagannath, Nanhu and Company.
He renamed it Jagannath, Nanhu and Jaduram Ltd in 1968 before rebuilding the old shacks into what they are now.
“We used to supply electricity to the Post Office which was in Vaturekuka.”
Due to the fast development that was undertaken by the Jaduram family, shops were shortly moved to where the town is today.
“The town then began taking shape with the inclusion of tailor shops, a theatre built by my grandfather named the Majestic Theatre, a photography shop and blacksmiths,” Mr Jaduram said.
“Our property extended from the current Fiji Development Bank site to Amrit Arcade.”
Then as the years progressed a few more stores began setting up in the area, namely A.M. Broziak LTD, Jaganath Manhu Bros, Lalji Valabdass Kara Raniga, Adhin, Venkataya and Ramsi Subrail.
To date, Labasa is the biggest town in Vanua Levu with a population of 49,369 at the most recent census held in 2017.
It has evolved over the years with new shops opening in the area such as Damodar City.
If you enjoy reading this piece continue to buy The Fiji Times as the team from the North Bureau will be writing more on the history of Labasa.
