For many Fijians, travelling overseas for a vacation is usually on the top of their bucket list. But during my recent work trip to Kadavu, I realised there was more to Fiji than meets the eye.
Our beautiful islands have so much to offer anyone who wants to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. All that one needs is to do is to make the decision to soak up the serenity of the islands, beautiful pristine beaches and the simplicity of village life.
In the end, a short travel to any part of Fiji is literally — going ‘over the seas’ but with a much more cheaper rate and minus the jet lag. During my recent island-hopping to Kadavu, $43 took me on an eight-hour boat ride aboard Lomaiviti Princess I to the first port of call, Vunisea, and then Kavala Jetty in the district of Nakasaleka.
For someone looking for a memorable vacation, Kadavu has a lot to offer from five star resorts to the laid back home stay accommodation in Vunisea.
But nothing beats a holiday in the village, meeting islanders up close and personal — and enjoying the abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables and the salivating variety of seafood.
When I left Suva, I was told by a workmate that Vunisea had a nightclub that opened on weekends widely known to locals as ‘Botswana’. A nightclub in Kadavu? I was surprised that there would be one so far from the city. So I thought to write a business story. I started by asking locals about the nightclub ‘Botswana’ — and hoping it was a nightclub.
I was even more surprised to learn Botswana was a patch of beautiful white sandy beach off the old Vunisea Jetty, famous for weekend drink ups and picnics.
My inquiry went no further than that. Kadavu consists of 78 villages and 11 districts scattered along beautiful sandy beaches with lush vegetation, rich soil and natural resources. The main source of income on the island is yaqona farming.
Vunisea is a small island town. The airport is within walking distance and it boasts supermarkets, a hospital, post office, police station, government school, government offices, thrift shops, bakery and homestays. The Fiji Times photographer, Sophie Ralulu and I lodged at Namalata Village in the district of Tavuki.
After presenting our sevusevu to village elders on the first day, we were served with delicious fish and fresh coconut milk (miti), dalo with lalabe (edible ferns) and washed it down with fresh ‘kava’ mixed out the ‘i bo’ or ‘i unu’ (traditional strainer made from dried bark beach hibiscus plant).
One thing about Kadavu, is the friendliness of its people. I never felt like an outsider and was welcomed to their homes to either share a meal, a cup of draunimoli (hot lemon leaf tea) or a bowl of grog. If you ever plan to visit Kadavu, the district of Nabukelevu should be one place to go.
We had the privilege of being hosted by the Turaga na Tui Nabukelevu, Ratu Apakuki Nanovo in the chiefly village of Daviqele during our stay to cover climate change stories.
The district consists of 11 villages, Daviqele, Muaninuku, Tabuya, Dagai, Lomaji, Qalira, Talaulia, Nasau, Levuka, Kabariki and Nabukelevu-I-Ra. The fare from Vunisea to villages in Nabukelevu, if you hire a vehicle, is around $100 to $150 return, per passenger it would cost around $20.
The district is surrounded by sparkling sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and famously known for the Mount Washington or Ului Nabukelevu — which provides a picturesque backdrop to Daviqele Village. Nabukelevu is the only area in the West of Kadavu that retains an extensive old growth forest.
It soil is rich and dalo crops could grow up to the size of an arm’s length. According to Bird Life International, the highest mountain in Nabukelevu and the largest area of montane forest in West Kadavu are home to four bird species endemic to Kadavu, and may still support nesting colonies of collared petrels and other seabirds.
During our stay in Daviqele, as traditional protocol dictated, we presented our sevusevu to Ratu Nanovo seeking his approval to conduct interviews in the district about the impact of climate change on his people.
He requested that we attend the monthly church service (vulavou) so we could be welcomed — we didn’t decline to his request.
We spent two days in the village and were treated to a feast of fresh fish, freshly boiled or cooked in thick coconut milk and famous ‘suli’ or dalo ni Nabukelevu.
If it was up to us, we would have spent another week in Nabukelevu, but duty calls, and we had to return to Namalata Village to prepare for the purpose of our visit to Kadavu – covering the Kadavu Provincial Council meeting in the chiefly village of Tavuki.
That eight days work trip was such an eye opener for a susu madrai (someone brought up in the urban area) like me.
I got to experience what island life had to offer, and more. If you are ever thinking of a vacation ‘over the sea’, put Kadavu on your bucket list. You will not be disappointed!
