IF there’s ever one place that is filled with traditional obligations, that would be Fiji particularly for iTaukei families. These obligations fall heavily on the elders of the family, whether mum or dad, to carry through and teach their children. These obligations can be costly but are recognised as vital part connecting one to their roots and extended family.
The Christmas holiday is also the time when most families keep up with obligations and travel — one very common being the “kau ni mata ni gone”.
This is when parents take their children to the village for the first time, just like their parents did before. It’s a fun-filled trip to either the paternal or maternal side of the family.
It is an official observation to initiate the eldest child to his or her roots. Usually hosted at the village of origin, the celebration is witnessed by the whole mataqali. It is a joyous time when families come together to feast.
One such village that celebrated the observance of the kau i cakau was Dravuni in Kadavu where Fijian renowned hotelier Radike Qereqeretabua’s family is from.
This time around, it was for his three grandchildren, the children of his son, Sakiusa Qereqeretabua who travelled all the way from Auckland, New Zealand, to be taken to their village for the first time.
According to Sakiusa, the “kau i cakau” is observed for the eldest in a family as an initiation into the village community and life as they depend on the sea for their food.
“The reefs are the key source of food and protein for many island communities, as with Dravuni and other parts of Kadavu. Traditionally, it is seen as indulging the eldest,” Sakiusa said.
“To clarify, the kau ni mata ni gone is observed when children go to their koro ni vasu (mother’s village). In the case of our children going to their own village, it was more an introduction to their village and their extended family.
“Our family decided that while the children were having their first visit to Dravuni, we would also observe the kau i cakau rite and take the eldest, Isaac, to the reef.
“The kau i cakau is performed for the eldest and as far as we know is practised on the islands as much as possible. My sister, Lenora being the eldest and her only child, were accorded the same in Buliya after she married Poasa, who is from Buliya.”
When the family first arrived at Dravuni on January 3, they performed their boka and isevusevu, then the kau i cakau was performed by the bati (traditional warriors), the men of the mataqali Navusalevu.
There are two mataqali on Dravuni, the mataqali Natusara of which they are members and the mataqali Navusalevu.
According to the Dravuni rituals, if a child from the mataqali Navusalevu was being taken to the reef, members of the mataqali Natusara would take him or her and this practice strengthens their relationship.
Isaac, the eldest of Sakiusa and Emily’s three children, was dressed in masi and a whales tooth was hung around his neck which the mataqali Navusalevu then take as theirs before taking him to the reef.
Isaac’s two siblings Viliame and Ruby accompanied their big brother.
“When we got to the reef the kids could not wait to jump in; they are all very confident swimmers despite their ages.
“After about half an hour we headed back to Dravuni for a very noisy and funny cere on the beach. The mataqali Navusalevu then took Isaac, dressed him in masi, tabua and metres of colourful cloth before bringing him back to our mataqali vakatunuloa for the remainder of the ceremony.
“Our traditional i qoliqoli includes the Solo Reef, which surrounds the Solo Lighthouse at the top part of the Great Astrolabe Reef and there are more rituals that take place when an eldest in the family is taken to Solo, but time did not permit a trip to Solo this time.”
Radike Qereqeretabua, their grandfather, explained that this was definitely a tradition they would like to keep and it is one that was being followed by their family from time immemorial.
“I am very happy and proud that my son has followed protocol and the tradition of our clan. The part played by the bati, mataqali Navusalevu is very important and has brought the two mataqali closer together,” Mr Qereqeretabua said.
Isaac, 11, Viliame, 9, and Ruby, 5, may live in New Zealand but the recent practice of being accorded full traditional welcome from their fellow villagers would definitely be one they would never forget and would make them want to return to Dravuni every Christmas break.
r As per the traditional iTaukei norm, iTaukei children are accorded the kau mata ni gone ritual when they are taken to their mother’s village for their first-ever visit.
r Different provinces have different ways of observing the kau mata ni gone tradition.
r This is also done for most children who are brought up in towns and cities and in some cases those who live abroad and have never visited their village.
r This act is not only observed when children are taken to their mother’s village for the first time, it is also observed for children who are taken to their village for the first time but different names are used for it such as boka and sevusevu.
r In some cases, boka is also observed or carried out when a villager has been missing or has not been part of his village functions for many years so he presents whale’s tooth to his fellow villagers.
